Thursday, July 1, 2010

SUNRISE INN

I'm not a native of northeastern Ohio -- I was born in Indiana and grew up on a small farm on the southwest side of the Buckeye State -- but I've lived in this neck of the woods ever since I left home to start college at Kent State University way back in 1959. A few years later, I married a guy from Niles, and that's been my home ever since.

One of the disadvantages of living in rural Ohio way back when (although of course I didn't realize it at the time) was an almost total lack of ethnic food. For the most part, we grew what we ate, all lovingly cooked from scratch by a hard-working
Mom who was proud to call herself a "housewife." To this day, I clearly remember my first taste of what was called "pizza pie" -- an oven-warmed triangle of red sauce topped by too-hot melted cheese that was sold to the kids at the public swimming pool in Union City, Indiana, for the first time when I was in junior high. It was totally new, totally delicious, and my introduction to the wonderful world of Italian food.

Then when I hit the city of Niles, with its large Italian population, I thought I'd died and gone to Heaven. I lost count of the times we went to the long-gone Jerry's In
n or still popular Alberini's Restaurant for what my husband Jack and I still call the best-ever pizza. Spaghetti and meatballs? Speaking as someone who grew up on cans of Chef Boyardee, I couldn't get enough of the "real" thing.

All this brings me to the subject of this blog, Sunrise Inn in Warren, Ohio -- because for years, it's been my absolute favorite place for spaghetti. To
me, the sauce is absolutely wonderful, and the best I've had anywhere; relatively thick and slightly sweet, it has a flavor beyond compare. We've gone there with regularity for many years, and I've never been disappointed.

That's not to say, though, that we haven't tried -- and loved -- other things, not the least of which is the Sunrise Inn pizza. On many occasions, we've stopped in just to sit at the bar for a couple of beers and a couple of slices of bar pizza -- most often the old-fashioned Old World (sometimes known as Brier Hill), topped with a wonderful red sauce, slightly spicy pepperoni and sprinkle cheese. Once in a while I'll try a slice of deep-dish, spinach or veggie pizza -- all delicious -- but in the end the hands-down favorite is the Old World.

We're also quite fond of several other entrees, some Italian, some not; one of my favorites, for instance, is tortellini -- cheese or spinach, your choice, both delicious -- for $8.99. Jack regularly opts for lasagna, which stands at least 4 inches high and covers most of a plate counting the spillover sauce. And Chef Boyardee be darned, the ravioli here is absolutely wonderful. Still another hard-to-go-wrong items are eggplant parmesan and seafood linguine with either red or white sauce -- although lately the latter has become a Friday-only option.

Sunrise Inn is also the go-to place for garlic chicken; that and pizza are popular take-out items. Every time we eat here, we watch quite a number of folks come in to pick up orders they've called in. My preference is the four-piece all dark (Jack prefers the same but all-white) for $7.65; both come with a large Texas potato slice and cole slaw.

Recent years also have brought the addition of roasted prime rib, available for $9.99 on Thursdays and Sundays. It's wonderfully flavored and cooked to perfection -- and at least for me, there's always plenty left for lunch or dinner the next day.

Also more recently is the addition of "Eleven for Eleven" on the menu; as you might expect, there are 11 entrees priced at, well...On a recent visit with friends Jerry and Barb (and a $25 certificate we snagged from Restaurant.com), it was this menu that got our full attention. Consider the following:

Tuna Lorenz, yellowfin tuna suteed with capers, mushrooms, carrots and broccoli in lemon-sherry-butter sauce (for me); Seafood Marinara, Blue Island mussels, black tiger shrimp, tilapia and chopped clams sauteed with garlic in marinara sauce over linguine (Jack); Chicken Monterrey, two breasts with green peppers, artichoke hearts, diced tomatoeas and green onions in garlic butter sauce with Monterrey Jack cheese over rice pilaf (Jerry); and Blackened Pork Chops Au Blu, center-cut chops with blackened seasoning, blue cheese, bacon and caramelized onions over crispy potatoes (Barb).

Needless to say, we sampled each others' entrees, and every one of us said we'd have been quite satisfied with any of the others' choices. The chicken was especially tasty (I love artichoke hearts), and the chops were juicy and tender -- what's not to love about blue cheese?

It goes without saying that we all came back for more; this time, Barb's choice was the "Po Boy" crabcake with remoulade, lettuce, tomato, red onion and cole slaw on a boule for $8.69, while Jerry opted for chicken parmesan, or strips of chicken with onion, peppers, pineapple chunks for $9.39. I stuck with my favorite meat-filled ravioli with toasted garlic bread ($8.99), while Jack, who wasn't quite as hungry, decided on a small order of spaghetti for $7.49 but added mushrooms for an additional 99 cents plus a cup of the delicious tomato bisque.

Everything was absolutely delicious as usual, but Barb was astounded at the size of the crab cake (for the record, it was the biggest one I've ever seen, even on the Atlantic Coast). It tasted even better, although she was able to eat only about half and took the rest home. Noticing that the same crab cake is on the dinner menu, we asked about it -- and our server told us the dinner has not one, but two, of the same huge crab cakes (you'll find it on the Eleven Under Eleven menu).

On still another visit, this time with a coupon for up to $8 off on two dinner entrees from the Entertainment Book, I couldn't resist that "Under Eleven" menu and just had to try the linguine-tuna primavera, with mushrooms, onions, broccoli, carrots and peas in light cream sauce topped with toasted almonds. It was, in three words, to die for. Jack, however, decided on the more classic lasagna, adding a salad for 99 cents.

I feel compelled to add that entrees come with fresh-baked Italian bread; it's hard to resist, but be careful. It's quite dense, and consuming a slice or two can fill you up before your meals arrive. We've learned to pace ourselves, taking the leftover bread home for later.

If you go:

Sunrise Inn
510 E. Market St.
Warren, Ohio 44481
(330) 392-5176

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