Those who have followed my restaurant reviews in the past know that until I left my parents' farm for college in 1959, my idea of Italian food was opening a can of Chef Boyardee (no, that's not a joke). But college was a game-changer; since the dormitories at Kent State University didn't serve meals on Sundays back then, hungry students had to fend for themselves. Those who didn't opt for shakes and burgers at Lujan's gravitated toward The Stag bar. And that's where I had my first taste of authentic spaghetti sauce - so good it was almost a religious experience. Real pizza came a little later at the long-gone Jerry's Inn on Mason Street in Niles - which is where I learned to love icy cold beer as well, though I had to settle for the low-powered (3.2) stuff because I wasn't yet 21.
After I got married, I relocated to my husband Jack's home turf of Niles, where I swear there's an Italian restaurant on practically every corner. The U.S. Route 422 "Strip" was a gold mine of opportunity; who can forget Alberini's? Or Jimmy Chieffo's? Or El Rio or Cafe 422 (the latter is still going strong, by the way).
Along the way, I've even learned to cook a few Italian specialties, but my culinary efforts don't hold a candle to any of the wonderful area restaurants. Marino's Italian Cafe is among them - and I reviewed it in this blog way back in 2010 after visiting with a couple of friends. Happily, our move something like eight years ago to Mineral Ridge put us just several stones' throws from the restaurant, located just around the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue in Austintown.
When we stopped in recently with that same couple to celebrate a birthday, I decided it's time for an updated review. The atmosphere is very relaxed here, with a row of booths against one wall and tables filling the rest of the room - with one exception: one wall houses the buffet stand; a lunch buffet is served Wednesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ($13.99) and Saturday nights ($19.99). But this was late afternoon, and once we were seated in a booth, our first request of the server wasn't for drinks, but rather whether we'd get a basket of Mama Marino's famous rolls - buttery delicious and still warm from the oven. Absolutely, she replied, eliciting smiles of anticipation all around.
On this, our "official" visit, we started with shared appetizers as is our custom. The aforementioned friends, hereafter known as Jerry and Barb (because, well, those are their names and as far as I know they have no need to remain anonymous) chose bruschetta, bread topped with red peppers, olive oil, various spices and cheese and drizzled with balsamic vinegar and chopped tomatoes and very tasty ($8.49). Also as is our custom, I opted for hot peppers in oil - less of a search for great flavor and more of a quest to check the extent to which said peppers qualify as "hot." The peppers here are quite flavorful ($7.99), but from the perspective of my cast iron stomach there's no heat to speak of, so I probably won't get them again. But I'll also note that they had too much "kick" for any of my three companions so consider the source (and yes, I ate the entire plate all by myself).
For our entrees, I got meat-filled ravioli (big surprise, huh?) with marinara sauce - no meatball - with wedding soup as a side instead of the crispy salads chosen by my three companions. The wedding soup, for the record, is just about the tastiest I've ever had at a restaurant; better still, it arrived actually hot. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to be served a cup or bowl of lukewarm soup, which unfortunately seems to be the norm (one of these days when it arrives that way, I'm going to work up the courage to send it back to be properly heated up). I'm not sure the reasoning behind it - if it's to protect customers from burning their lips or tongues, a simple "Be careful, this is quite hot" warning from the server will suffice for me, thank you very much.
Barb chose ravioli as well, but opted for the lobster-stuffed special of the day topped with a blend of Alfredo and marinara, if I recall correctly (diners can opt for whatever sauce they want on their pasta). The sauce was absolutely delicious - she graciously shared a bite - but it was so rich I might have made it through one ravioli but not an entire plateful. Jack chose crab-stuffed whitefish - delicious also, but the fish, as is not usual for those of us who buy it at inland restaurants, was cooked a little too dead for my tastes. Jerry's birthday meal was veal marsala ($17.99). Honestly, I forgot to ask him if he liked it, but I did notice that his plate was clean when we finished up so I'll go out on a limb and assume he did.
Also worth noting is that Marino's has a wide selection of carry-out catering items to feed a crowd, such as eggplant parmesan, sausage with peppers and onions and lasagna plus that wonderful wedding soup ($15 a quart) and rolls ($7 a dozen). As I've mentioned before, we typically make restaurant stops at off hours, in large part to avoid crowds and waiting. Marino's is relatively small, though, and I've seen the parking lot with every single slot occupied on many occasions. To be on the safe side especially when you'll need four or more seats, I advise calling ahead to see if reservations are advisable. Then go. Mangia!
If you go:
Marino's Italian Cafe
5423 Mahoning Ave.
Youngstown, Ohio 44515
(330) 799-8326
http://www.marinositaliancafe.com
Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Closed Monday
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