O'Charley's is A-O'K

Count my husband Jack and I among those who suffered hunger withdrawal pains back when the Chi-Chi's restaurants bit the dust. Often, we'd pop in the Niles location near Eastwood Mall for a margarita or pitcher of sangria; almost as often, we'd end up in the restaurant, where the seafood enchiladas were to die for. Alas, amigos, it was not to be forever.

Sometime thereafter, we learned that a new restaurant called O'Charley's would be opening at that location. Owned and operated by Covelli Enterprises of Warren -- one of a 50-store franchise agreement signed in 2005 between Covelli and O'Charley's Inc. of Nashville, Tenn. -- it would join the local casual dining family restaurant category. O'Phoo, we said -- not that we don't like these places, but do we really need another of the Applebee's, Chili's and Ruby Tuesday eat-alikes? No, we said to each other, it was doubtful we'd ever be regular customers.

And by golly, we had to eat our words. From the very first visit, we felt right at home here. For openers, the atmosphere is far more pleasant than those other casual dining places. I love the dark, rich wood, old photos from the Niles area on the walls and booths that are arranged for optimal privacy. Greeters and servers are friendly and pleasant -- not the overly exuberant, excessively perky types who act as though they're your best friend the second you walk in the door. Another plus: A lack of the usual restaurant noise. There's no loud music to drown out conversation, no banging and clattering of dishes, no servers shouting out orders. In short, it's a comfortable place to enjoy a great meal in relative peace and quiet.

And then, of course, there's the most important part: The wonderful food.

Early on, we learned that salads here are not to be missed. At one lunch adventure, we made a halfhearted attempt at eating healthy, ordering soup and salads. Our server's suggestion swayed both of us toward the Chicken Harvest soup, which she described as "like chicken potpie in a bowl" (it's a menu regular). It was both one of the thickest and most delicious soups I've ever had -- I swear I could have turned the cup upside down without spilling any of those tasty noodles, vegetable bits and chicken -- and at $2.99 a cup, it was hearty enough to make a meal all by itself.

The salads aren't inexpensive -- the Pecan Chicken Tender (my choice) was $9.49 and the Cajun Chicken Jack picked was $8.99 -- but they were so large there was plenty left over to take home. Mine was Romaine lettuce topped with pecan-encrusted chicken "O'tenders" (what else?) plus mandarin oranges, crumbled bleu cheese, dried cranberries and honey roasted pecans. Add a tasty balsamic vinaigrette dressing -- all are served on the side here, by the way -- and I was in salad Heaven. Our conversation slowed to a crawl as I dived into my salad and Jack discovered the spicy blackened chicken, shredded cheeses and tomatoes on fresh greens, all spiced up with O'Charley's signature ranch dressing. Oh yes, the chicken on both salads was cut into manageable chunks and quite tasty as well.

These days, many restaurants are offering "twofer" deals, and O'Charley's is no exception. Not long ago, we were hungry and stopped in to take advantage of a two-meals-for-$14.99 offer. Needless to say, the first problem was deciding what to choose. We were tempted by several possibilities, including a Wild West Burger topped with melted Monterrey Jack cheese, crispy bacon, fried onion tanglers and "zesty" Cajun-horseradish sauce and the Cajun Shrimp & Grits (jumbo New Orleans-style shrimp sauteed and served with onions, peppers, tomatoes and chopped bacon over cheddar cheese grits). In the end, though -- recalling that yummy Chicken Harvest soup -- I decided on the Chicken Harvest Pot Pie, while Jack opted for the Prime Rib Philly sandwich with seasoned fries.

Neither of us was disappointed, and neither did we go home hungry. The sandwich consisted of thinly sliced prime rib on a toasted hoagy roll topped with sauteed mushrooms, onions, peppers and melted Monterrey Jack cheese. The pot pie, which I highly recommend, was a down-home mixture of pulled chicken, carrots, celery, peas and mushrooms in a creamy "harvest" sauce, all piled on top of smashed potatoes and topped with puff pastry. And the taste? To die for; and because the pot pie is so large, I was able to enjoy the other half back at home the next day.

We also noticed that O'Charley's is serving prime rib every day after 4 p.m., so since that's a favorite (and Jack's prime rib sandwich was so delicious), we definitely plan a return trip to try the whole enchilada (with all due respect and a tip of the sombrero to Chi-Chi's).

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the wonderful fresh-baked rolls with honey butter that accompany the entrees. They're a signature item and quite delicious. In fact, if you stop by O'Charley's Web site (see the address below), do check out the video titled "The Story of Our Rolls." It's hokey as all get-out, but very well done and brings home the point in an interesting, unique way.

O'Charley's also serves up a mean Sunday brunch, although not with the typical buffet. Instead, there are off-the-menu items ranging from a wonderful open-face spinach and mushroom omelette ($7.99) to a hefty hunk of that slow-roasted, prime rib rubbed with herbs and spices (10-ounce portion, $14.99). Sandwiches here are especially tasty; my favorite is the Mushroom Swiss Bacon Burger topped with just what you'd expect to find given the name ($8.49). And appetizers? Plentiful and delicious as well; here, I'm particularly fond of the Authentic Spinach & Artichoke Dip that comes with warm, crisp tortilla chips ($6.99).

While I'm on the subject of appetizers, I'll let you in on a little secret: If you find a restaurant you especially love, go to the Web site and, if possible, sign up to get periodic e-mails alerting you to special deals, happenings, and such. When I did just that at O'Charley's, I received a printable coupon within minutes giving me a free appetizer with the purchase of an entree. You don't have to use the coupons if you don't want to, but why miss out on the opportunity? I recommend creating a special "throw-away" e-mail address to use for this purpose so you don't clog up your primary e-mailbox (and then be sure to check it regularly, since most of the special deals and freebies come with expiration dates).

Also as I mentioned before, O'Charley's has a very nice full bar -- and some absolutely wonderful drinks to go with it. We stop in every once in a while for Happy Hour (at the moment, it's from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., when select appetizers are half price, domestic draft beer is $2 and "basic" margaritas are $4. Well drinks are inexpensive, too, and last time I was there the bartender made a mean gin and tonic with lime. If you'd like something a bit fancier, you might try a tangerine pomegranate margarita, a glass of sangria, or perhaps a special Raspberry Limoncello, which is made with Chambord black raspberry, Caravella Limoncello, lemon and lime juice and a splash of cherry and served in a martini glass ($6.49). Yum!

If you go: O'Charley's
5789 Mines Road
Niles, OH 44446
(330) 288-0066

930 Windham Court
Boardman, Ohio 44512
(330) 259-0207
http://www.ocharleys.com

Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (brunch served from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.)