Thursday, November 21, 2019

COACHES BURGER BAR

Almost before the entrance door has smacked my husband Jack and me in the backside, the bartender at Coaches Burger Bar in Austintown has poured our beers (Labbatt's Blue, for the record). By the time we get to our booth of choice, they're on the table. That's a testament to two things: a) the number of times we've been here and b) the attentiveness of said bartender. Either one means we're always glad we came. Cheers!

In fact, we've been coming here regularly since it opened - in 2015, I believe. It's located in the space that held another of our favorite-but-gone restaurants, Jeremiah Bullfrog's (and subsequently a couple of other restaurants that never, IMHO, stood the ghost of a chance of succeeding at this shopping mall near the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue). Typically, we time our visits on the outskirts of the prime lunch hour - meaning somewhere around 1 p.m. - and getting a booth in our favorite bar area toward the back has never been a problem. There are also two relatively spacious dining areas with many more tables and booths - all within easy watching of the goodly number of wall-hung TV sets. The decor isn't fancy-schmancy, but it's clean, comfortable and doesn't make diners feel as if they're sardines (although it can get a little loud on a Sunday afternoon when the Browns or Steelers are playing).

Oddly, given the focus at this place, it's rare for either of us to order a burger. That's not because they're no good; rather, it's just that neither of us is a big fan of the iconic sandwich. When I succumb, I have a tough time choosing between the Peppercorn Burger (seared in a blend of black and white pepper and topped with sauteed mushrooms, onion and Swiss cheese with a sweet peppercorn aioli at $9.99), the Sideline Fire Burger (topped with pepper jack cheese, house-made hot peppers and "fire" sauce at $10.99) and the Bleu Burger (topped with bleu cheese crumbles, onion tanglers and Southwest ranch dressing at $11.99). Put my feet to the fire (so to speak) and I'll probably deem the second one my favorite, but honestly, it depends on the mood that strikes me when the server shows up to take my order. All, I hasten to add, have been exceptionally delicious.

More often, as at our most recent visit, we'll opt for one of the 10-inch specialty pizzas; our favorite is the Original
Veggie, with cheese, onions, mushrooms, green peppers and sliced tomatoes (to which we add pepperoni) at $8.99. A basic cheese version is just $6.99, and there are a few varieties that don't tempt us in the slightest (potato & greens, for instance) that are priced at $10.99. The crust is tasty and on the thinner (but not too thin), somewhat crispy side; if we get another item to share - like an appetizer or wings - there's plenty to satisfy both of us and provide a couple of slices to take home.

Amid the 14 specialty burgers (plus a build-your-own option) are a number of other sandwiches, all of which come with "Coaches signature" fries. We've sampled a few, including the Gyro ($9.99) and Crabby Patty (a homemade crab cake topped with house remoulade, lettuce, tomato and onion at $10.99) and all were delicious. When we're in sandwich mode, one of us is likely to substitute a small order of onion tanglers for the fries for an extra $2.50. The fries are very good, but how many can two people eat, for gosh sakes? I'm also a fan of the Pepper & Egg sandwich; at $6.99, it's just what it claims to be plus provolone cheese. The Gyro is quite good as well ($9.99 with fries).

One early evening visit was especially memorable, but for a rather somber reason. Our booth of choice is one of those at the back of the restaurant in the bar area, but on this visit the hostess - who of course knew of our preference - suggested that we might prefer a different location. On this day, it seems, the last Chevrolet Cruze had rolled off the assembly line at the General Motors plant in nearby Lordstown; and the bar was packed with workers who had just finished what for many would be their last-ever day at work there. Looking around at the faces - most not smiling - our first thought was regret that we hadn't brought more cash with us so we could have bought a round for the bar. 

This past summer was marked with seasonal specials like "Boom-Boom" shrimp with tasty siracha sauce (for which Jack developed a craving that brought us back here at least once a week) and a spicy crabcake. They're gone now, alas, but we're hoping both will make a comeback next summer. That aforementioned Crabby Patty is pretty good, but Jack says it doesn't quite compare to that wonderful summer version.

Often, we'll get an order of wings to share (five for $5.99 and 10 for
$11.99); our favorite is the buttery garlic parmesan. If I'm honest, I must say that the wings here are excellent but not our all-time favorites;  Gasoline Alley in Niles tops my pecking order of bird appendages (with Niki'z, also in Niles, and Little Wing Cafe in Warren rounding out my Top 3 list). But now that we've moved from our long-time home in Niles to Mineral Ridge, Coaches is much more convenient for spur-of-the-moment eating out. 

There are other tempting items on the menu, like salads, appetizers, a couple of desserts and milkshakes (several flavors at $3.99 each that you can "spike" for an additional $3.50). One of these days, I'm determined to try one - unspiked, thank you very much. Hmmm, think I'll shoot for this coming summer when I dig into those Boom-Boom shrimp once again. Pretty please?

If you go:

Coaches Burger Bar
5529 Mahoning Avenue
Austintown, Ohio 44515
(330) 330-8686

Coachesburgers.com

Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Other locations in Boardman, Poland, Salem and Lisbon.