MARINO'S ITALIAN CAFE (REVISITED)

Those who have followed my restaurant reviews in the past know that until I left my parents' farm for college in 1959, my idea of Italian food was opening a can of Chef Boyardee (no, that's not a joke). But college was a game-changer; since the dormitories at Kent State University didn't serve meals on Sundays back then, hungry students had to fend for themselves. Those who didn't opt for shakes and burgers at Lujan's gravitated toward The Stag bar. And that's where I had my first taste of authentic spaghetti sauce - so good it was almost a religious experience. Real pizza came a little later at the long-gone Jerry's Inn on Mason Street in Niles - which is where I learned to love icy cold beer as well, though I had to settle for the low-powered (3.2) stuff because I wasn't yet 21.

After I got married, I relocated to my husband Jack's home turf of Niles, where I swear there's an Italian restaurant on practically every corner. The U.S. Route 422 "Strip" was a gold mine of opportunity; who can forget Alberini's? Or Jimmy Chieffo's? Or El Rio or Cafe 422 (the latter is still going strong, by the way).

Along the way, I've even learned to cook a few Italian specialties, but my culinary efforts don't hold a candle to any of the wonderful area restaurants. Marino's Italian Cafe is among them - and I reviewed it in this blog way back in 2010 after visiting with a couple of friends. Happily, our move something like eight years ago to Mineral Ridge put us just several stones' throws from the restaurant, located just around the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue in Austintown.

When we stopped in recently with that same couple to celebrate a birthday, I decided it's time for an updated review. The atmosphere is very relaxed here, with a row of booths against one wall and tables filling the rest of the room - with one exception: one wall houses the buffet stand; a lunch buffet is served Wednesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ($13.99) and Saturday nights ($19.99). But this was late afternoon, and once we were seated in a booth, our first request of the server wasn't for drinks, but rather whether we'd get a basket of Mama Marino's famous rolls - buttery delicious and still warm from the oven. Absolutely, she replied, eliciting smiles of anticipation all around.

Needless to say, the menu is full of Italian specialties - from appetizers like lightly fried calamari and sauteed greens (add homemade hot peppers for a small upcharge if you want) to wedding soup and caprese salad (a favorite of mine), Italian staples like calzones and pizza and ravioli (another favorite of mine), linguine with white or red clam sauce ande manicotti filled ricotta topped with tomato or Alfredo sauce. And more. Plenty more. Entree prices are quite reasonable, with a plate of basic spaghetti with marinara at $8.99 and that aforementioned linguine with clam sauce at $15.99. All prices I mention here, of course, are what we paid at the time of our visit.

On this, our "official" visit, we started with shared appetizers as is our custom. The aforementioned friends, hereafter known as Jerry and Barb (because, well, those are their names and as far as I know they have no need to remain anonymous) chose bruschetta, bread topped with red peppers, olive oil, various spices and cheese and drizzled with balsamic vinegar and chopped tomatoes and very tasty ($8.49). Also as is our custom, I opted for hot peppers in oil - less of a search for great flavor and more of a quest to check the extent to which said peppers qualify as "hot." The peppers here are quite flavorful ($7.99), but from the perspective of my cast iron stomach there's no heat to speak of, so I probably won't get them again. But I'll also note that they had too much "kick" for any of my three companions so consider the source (and yes, I ate the entire plate all by myself).

For our entrees, I got meat-filled ravioli (big surprise, huh?) with marinara sauce - no meatball - with wedding soup as a side instead of the crispy salads chosen by my three companions.  The wedding soup, for the record, is just about the tastiest I've ever had at a restaurant; better still, it arrived actually hot. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to be served a cup or bowl of lukewarm soup, which unfortunately seems to be the norm (one of these days when it arrives that way, I'm going to work up the courage to send it back to be properly heated up). I'm not sure the reasoning behind it - if it's to protect customers from burning their lips or tongues, a simple "Be careful, this is quite hot" warning from the server will suffice for me, thank you very much.

Barb chose ravioli as well, but opted for the lobster-stuffed special of the day topped with a blend of Alfredo and marinara, if I recall correctly (diners can opt for whatever sauce they want on their pasta). The sauce was absolutely delicious - she graciously shared a bite - but it was so rich I might have made it through one ravioli but not an entire plateful. Jack chose crab-stuffed whitefish - delicious also, but the fish, as is not usual for those of us who buy it at inland restaurants, was cooked a little too dead for my tastes. Jerry's birthday meal was veal marsala ($17.99). Honestly, I forgot to ask him if he liked it, but I did notice that his plate was clean when we finished up so I'll go out on a limb and assume he did.

Also worth noting is that Marino's has a wide selection of carry-out catering items to feed a crowd, such as eggplant parmesan, sausage with peppers and onions and lasagna plus that wonderful wedding soup ($15 a quart) and rolls ($7 a dozen). As I've mentioned before, we typically make restaurant stops at off hours, in large part to avoid crowds and waiting. Marino's is relatively small, though, and I've seen the parking lot with every single slot occupied on many occasions. To be on the safe side especially when you'll need four or more seats, I advise calling ahead to see if reservations are advisable. Then go. Mangia!

If you go:

Marino's Italian Cafe
5423 Mahoning Ave.
Youngstown, Ohio 44515
(330) 799-8326

http://www.marinositaliancafe.com

Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Closed Monday

POST OFFICE PUB

When this restaurant review blog came to a screeching halt with the shuttering of businesses at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, the next installment was to be the Post Office Pub in downtown Mineral Ridge, Ohio. In part, that was because we were delighted to find a cool place to pop in for a cold one and a munchie or two on a hot day in the place to which we relocated after what was, for one of us, at least, a lifetime of living in nearby Niles. In fact, the Pub almost qualifies for right around the corner; I often pass by on one of my morning exercise walks.

I've always said you can tell a neighborhood bar by the fact that the server puts your drinks in front of you almost before you sit down - and that's certainly true here (two Rolling Rocks, one glass and a salt shaker, if anyone cares to know). Another clue is the special parking spots for motorcycles and golf carts; in our neck of the woods, after around 6 p.m. when it's not raining (and sometimes when it is), we could use a traffic cop to keep all the carts from hot-rodding around the streets.

But I digress. For those who haven't yet been to the Pub, the decor is simple but intriguing; located in what was the U.S. Post Office in Mineral Ridge until its closing in 2011, the walls are lined with old photographs and other graphics reminiscent of the building's past life. There's the requisite partitioned-off bar section plus a couple of rows of booths, several tables of various sizes, a covered outdoor patio for dining and a rack of for-sale logo-covered tee-shirts and hats for those who are into such things. Dining is uber-casual; rolls of paper towels on the tables serve as DIY napkins, and food is served in shallow metal baking pans lined with parchment paper.

Often, we'll pop in just for a couple of the aforementioned Rolling Rocks and an appetizer or two at the bar, usually during Happy Hour (3 to 5 p.m. weekdays), when selected appetizers and drinks are offered at special prices. It's safe to say we've tried most of the appetizers and all have been quite good; we're drawn to the chicken wings - garlic parm for me and teriyaki for Jack, all flats. To be honest, they don't come from the biggest chickens in the coop, but they're meaty enough and the sauces are excellent (the price fluctuates, and sometimes they're on special; at our official visit, Jack's six wings were $10.25 including an upcharge for getting all flats). If I had my druthers, I'd prefer a little more sauce - a lack of which I've also noticed at several area eateries, for the record. Wings were meant to fly, not float, but I do like enough sauce hanging around that I can slosh a little more on a wing or two when needed.

Speaking of appetizers, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the bourbon glazed brussel sprouts. There's a story here, so bear with me: I'm more than eight decades old, and for all but about two of those years, a brussel sprout never, ever passed my lips - not even to taste (nope, not gonna, can't make me). But something made me rethink that choice, most likely the reports of how healthy they are for us mortals - a status I hope will continue for at least another decade, BTW. Since they're listed here as both an appetizer ($11.50) and available as a side, on one visit I tried them as the latter figuring I wouldn't lose much if they were awful. Now seriously, I doubt the truly healthy aspect of these babies - the sauce is almost sweet enough to throw me into sugar shock - but oh my, are they ever delicious. Jack, who still hasn't come around to my way of thinking on those sprouts, is particularly fond of the potato skins appetizer ($11.50) and pierogies ($9.50, cheddar infused with carmelized onions).

In the sandwich department, there are a number of great burgers - I'm partial to the Black & Blue, at $13.50, and the Jameson Whiskey, $14.50. All sandwiches come with fries, with other options including sweet potato fries available at a small upcharge. But the regular fries are quite good - all precisely cut into neat squared strips reminiscent of those I make at home with my aging As Seen On TV Veg-O-Matic. My other favorite 'wich is the hot sausage, the meat for which comes from almost-next-door Badurik's Butcher Block, topped with marinara, bell peppers, carmelized onions and provone on a hoagie bun ($13.50). Entrees are more limited; at the time of this writing, seven are on the menu, with only three - all variations of haddock - ever passing from either of our mouths to our stomachs. The panko haddock ($15.50) is my favorite, and the portions for all - including the fish sandwich - are generous. 

For our official visit, Jack went with his usual teriyaki wings, while I opted for the chicken tenders ($11.50 under the "handhelds" section) which I haven't before tried. Similar to those at Buffalo Wild Wings but a tad less flavorful coating, they're deliciously crunchy on the outside and (what else!) "tender" on the inside. I like mine dipped in honey mustard sauce, but that's just one of several options available. They're also huge; in fact, all I could eat was two, bringing the other three, plus most of my fries, home for lunch the next day. 

As for dessert, you're on your own; I don't recall the last time either of us has ordered something sweet to end our meal (though if you're offering a snifter of Courvoisier, let's talk). When it comes to pay-up time, do be aware that there's a 2.8% surcharge if you use a credit card. While lots of small businesses do that and I do understand the reasoning behind it, that's a bit of a downer - especially since our credit card pays a 2% cashback on restaurant purchases, making the surcharge/cashback thing pretty much a wash.

In short, the Post Office Pub is a great place to go for a meal, a few drinks and snacks after work or to watch Caitlin Clark and the rest of the Indiana Fever do their thing (hey, I was born in the state, and even if I grew up in Ohio, we native Hoosiers and the sport of basketball are forever joined at the hip). 

If you go:

Post Office Pub
3821 Main St.
Mineral Ridge OH 44440
(330) 349-0440

http://www.mrpostofficepub.com

Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Noon to 7 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

REVIVING THE REVIEWS

For I can't even remember how many years, one of the greatest delights for both me and my husband Jack was going out to eat; a week without at least three lunch or dinner trips to a restaurant or bar was unusual. And while we've always believed food doesn't get much better than in the Mahoning and Shenango valleys, we loved sampling local restaurants when we traveled.Largely because of our love of dining out, both of us, individually and collectively, became restaurant reviewers. Whether it was for regular columns in the Youngstown-based Business Journal or this Mahoning Valley Eats & Treats blog, which I started in 2009 with a review of Margherita's Grille in Girard, Ohio, we loved telling anyone within reading distance what they could expect at area eateries. 

And then the bottom fell out. A potentially deadly virus dubbed COVID-19 made its way to the region, causing panic, countless hospitalizations and deaths even before it was officially declared a pandemic. The day before celebrations were to take place for my favorite holiday of the year, St. Patrick's Day, Ohio Gov. Mike DeWine ordered the closing of all bars and restaurants to in-house patrons. Restaurants that chose to remain open could offer take-out and delivery, but going inside was not a happenin' thing. Already geared up for the next day with my green beads and flashing shamrock ring at the ready, I was devastated to say the least.

It got worse. For more than a year, I estimate, we even avoided take-out for fear of possible contamination (as senior citizens with more than a few health concerns, we're particularly vulnerable to dire consequences of contracting the virus despite being fully vaccinated). Coupled with my distaste of reheated food - to me, it becomes leftovers any time after it leaves the restaurant – I was forced to hone cooking skills I'd previously hoped would remain dormant for the rest of my natural life. Finally, we began to chance take-out once every couple of weeks, limiting ourselves to restaurants not more than 15 minutes from home so the food would still be at least warm enough to be consumed when it got here with no microwave intervention.

Now 2024 is nearing the halfway point, and we've returned to occasional inside dining - but still, almost always at "off" hours when most booths and tables are empty and rarely more often than once a week. Like other once-frequent diners, we've mourned several of our once-favorite restaurants that were lost forever to the financial devastation rooted in the pandemic. As we've made cautious returns to a handful of old favorites, we've also made some observations - most of which, alas, are less than positive. Mind you, there are many reasons for the changes, many of them understandable under the circumstances, but here’s a run-down of what we’ve experienced:

1) Too often, the quality of the food overall isn’t the same. For whatever reason (and there can be many), more than a few of our former favorite dishes just don't taste the way they did pre-COVID. Of course, there are a few happy exceptions, including the above-mentioned Margherita’s, where we have yet to encounter a “bad” meal – just the other day, in fact, we brought our daughter-in-law and her brother here to celebrate Mother’s Day and delicious meals were had by all (hint: don’t miss the blackened Ahi tuna).

2) Menu options have shrunk. Items we used to love are nowhere to be found, and we've been told they're not likely to return.

3) Prices are noticeably higher than before the pandemic across the board. Prime rib or walleye, for instance, blows our dining out budget for an entire month. Getting an appetizer before a meal is a lost art now that they cost as much or more than the entrees. 

4) "Shrinkflation" is in full bloom. Some restaurants have kept prices close to pre-pandemic levels by reducing portions, which can be an effective option (on the surface, fine with us since our appetites have diminished with age as well, but at the same time, we no longer have the benefit of bringing home tomorrow's lunch). And a surprising number of eateries have both hiked prices and cut portion sizes.

5) Service is sketchy at best. Go anywhere near a peak time, and waiting in line is the norm. Often, it's not because there's a crowd; rather, patrons are sitting in the lobby looking at one or more sections of the restaurant that are shuttered because there aren't enough servers to handle all the available tables.

6) Schedules - even those posted online - are more limited now. Lunch, for instance, has totally disappeared at several restaurants we used to haunt around the noon hour. Ditto Sundays and Mondays, when many that used to be open on those days now are closed. It's not even unusual to find restaurants closing earlier than expected without warning, or for an entire day - again usually attributed to a lack of help. So if we have our heart set on a particular eatery, we try to remember to call ahead by an hour or so to make sure the doors are open.

The bottom line? Like many other people, we've had to make cutbacks, most notably the number of times we can afford to eat out. Even in the good old days, we tended to opt for a late lunch, when prices tended to be more reasonable; these days, we even have to think twice about that; dinners out are for special occasions only.

Still, while I'm a pretty darned good cook - thanks to growing up on a farm with a mother whose fresh-from-our backyard-coop fried chicken and homemade pies were second to none - I do not enjoy cooking and am more than ready to head out as often as possible. Already, I've made a list of restaurants that opened over the last couple of years as well as several I want to revisit. Doing so, I decided, is a good-enough reason to revive my restaurant-review blog. I can't make promises for frequency, shooting at first for monthly installments.

If you have a favorite or two you'd like to see, let me know and I’ll add it to the list. My requirements are relatively simple; I prefer local, independent restaurants within Trumbull, Mahoning, Columbiana (Ohio) and Mercer (Pennsylvania) counties, but chains are not off the table. Wineries that offer food beyond snacks and appetizers not only are fair game, but welcome. Till then, happy eating!

COACHES BURGER BAR

Almost before the entrance door has smacked my husband Jack and me in the backside, the bartender at Coaches Burger Bar in Austintown has poured our beers (Labbatt's Blue, for the record). By the time we get to our booth of choice, they're on the table. That's a testament to two things: a) the number of times we've been here and b) the attentiveness of said bartender. Either one means we're always glad we came. Cheers!

In fact, we've been coming here regularly since it opened - in 2015, I believe. It's located in the space that held another of our favorite-but-gone restaurants, Jeremiah Bullfrog's (and subsequently a couple of other restaurants that never, IMHO, stood the ghost of a chance of succeeding at this shopping mall near the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue). Typically, we time our visits on the outskirts of the prime lunch hour - meaning somewhere around 1 p.m. - and getting a booth in our favorite bar area toward the back has never been a problem. There are also two relatively spacious dining areas with many more tables and booths - all within easy watching of the goodly number of wall-hung TV sets. The decor isn't fancy-schmancy, but it's clean, comfortable and doesn't make diners feel as if they're sardines (although it can get a little loud on a Sunday afternoon when the Browns or Steelers are playing).

Oddly, given the focus at this place, it's rare for either of us to order a burger. That's not because they're no good; rather, it's just that neither of us is a big fan of the iconic sandwich. When I succumb, I have a tough time choosing between the Peppercorn Burger (seared in a blend of black and white pepper and topped with sauteed mushrooms, onion and Swiss cheese with a sweet peppercorn aioli at $9.99), the Sideline Fire Burger (topped with pepper jack cheese, house-made hot peppers and "fire" sauce at $10.99) and the Bleu Burger (topped with bleu cheese crumbles, onion tanglers and Southwest ranch dressing at $11.99). Put my feet to the fire (so to speak) and I'll probably deem the second one my favorite, but honestly, it depends on the mood that strikes me when the server shows up to take my order. All, I hasten to add, have been exceptionally delicious.

More often, as at our most recent visit, we'll opt for one of the 10-inch specialty pizzas; our favorite is the Original

Veggie, with cheese, onions, mushrooms, green peppers and sliced tomatoes (to which we add pepperoni) at $8.99. A basic cheese version is just $6.99, and there are a few varieties that don't tempt us in the slightest (potato & greens, for instance) that are priced at $10.99. The crust is tasty and on the thinner (but not too thin), somewhat crispy side; if we get another item to share - like an appetizer or wings - there's plenty to satisfy both of us and provide a couple of slices to take home.

Amid the 14 specialty burgers (plus a build-your-own option) are a number of other sandwiches, all of which come with "Coaches signature" fries. We've sampled a few, including the Gyro ($9.99) and Crabby Patty (a homemade crab cake topped with house remoulade, lettuce, tomato and onion at $10.99) and all were delicious. When we're in sandwich mode, one of us is likely to substitute a small order of onion tanglers for the fries for an extra $2.50. The fries are very good, but how many can two people eat, for gosh sakes? I'm also a fan of the Pepper & Egg sandwich; at $6.99, it's just what it claims to be plus provolone cheese. The Gyro is quite good as well ($9.99 with fries).

One early evening visit was especially memorable, but for a rather somber reason. Our booth of choice is one of those at the back of the restaurant in the bar area, but on this visit the hostess - who of course knew of our preference - suggested that we might prefer a different location. On this day, it seems, the last Chevrolet Cruze had rolled off the assembly line at the General Motors plant in nearby Lordstown; and the bar was packed with workers who had just finished what for many would be their last-ever day at work there. Looking around at the faces - most not smiling - our first thought was regret that we hadn't brought more cash with us so we could have bought a round for the bar. 

This past summer was marked with seasonal specials like "Boom-Boom" shrimp with tasty siracha sauce (for which Jack developed a craving that brought us back here at least once a week) and a spicy crabcake. They're gone now, alas, but we're hoping both will make a comeback next summer. That aforementioned Crabby Patty is pretty good, but Jack says it doesn't quite compare to that wonderful summer version.

Often, we'll get an order of wings to share (five for $5.99 and 10 for

$11.99); our favorite is the buttery garlic parmesan. If I'm honest, I must say that the wings here are excellent but not our all-time favorites;  Gasoline Alley in Niles tops my pecking order of bird appendages (with Niki'z, also in Niles, and Little Wing Cafe in Warren rounding out my Top 3 list). But now that we've moved from our long-time home in Niles to Mineral Ridge, Coaches is much more convenient for spur-of-the-moment eating out. 

There are other tempting items on the menu, like salads, appetizers, a couple of desserts and milkshakes (several flavors at $3.99 each that you can "spike" for an additional $3.50). One of these days, I'm determined to try one - unspiked, thank you very much. Hmmm, think I'll shoot for this coming summer when I dig into those Boom-Boom shrimp once again. Pretty please?

If you go:

Coaches Burger Bar
5529 Mahoning Avenue
Austintown, Ohio 44515
(330) 330-8686

Coachesburgers.com

Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Other locations in Boardman, Poland, Salem and Lisbon.

BEN'S RESTAURANT & BAR

What's better than finding a great place to enjoy the great outdoors and get interesting photographs? For me, it's finding a great new restaurant. That's an especially happy occasion now that my husband Jack and I don't go traveling the country (or even the state) as often as we once did - for the most part trying to keep the aging 2004 Pontiac Vibe that we love in good working condition and avoid having to buy a replacement.

This find happened after we visited Noah's Lost Ark near Berlin Center, Ohio - a wonderful sanctuary that provides shelter and care for exotic animals (think lions and tigers and bears, oh my!) that have been neglected and abused to the point that no one else wants them.

On the way to the sanctuary, we drove past a large building and noticed the sign - Ben's Restaurant & Bar. Ah, we said almost in unison, that looks like a really nice place. So when we left the sanctuary, it was time for a late lunch - and we made it a point to drive past the place again to see if it was open. It was (it's open for lunch on weekdays and breakfast on weekends), so of course we went in.

We were greeted in the lobby by one of the most beautiful (and large) floral wreaths I've ever seen. And as soon as we got inside the door, we were reminded of our many visits to the North Carolina Outer Banks; the two-level dining area is decorated in light teal with creamy white furniture, and wall art is similar to what is found in beach restaurants. There's a separate bar area with limited seating, but even though that's our usual choice, the dining room looked so inviting that we wandered in and found a table.

For the record, Ben's may be new to us, but it's certainly not new to the area; according to the menu, it was started in 1978 by Tom Bendetta and his wife Flo, who purchased an existing building. Ensuing years brought renovations and expansions, and today the restaurant seems to be thriving (offering catering and banquet menus as well as on-site dining and a full bar). 

Once we'd placed our drinks order (on-tap beers for both of us), we looked over the menu, starting, of course, with appetizers. Honestly, we weren't hungry enough at lunch to try one, but the sauteed mushrooms (prepared in a "special" homemade sauce for $6.99) and jumbo quesadillas were tempting - as was Tom's "famous" hot pepper salad.

As for the dinner options, we zeroed in on seafood (mostly because that's usually our choice for entrees and partly because of the dining room atmosphere), and we certainly weren't disappointed. Jack's eyes never left the deep sea scallops, sauteed and served on a bed of bow-tie pasta for $16.99. I was torn between the Cajun cod ($16.99) and orange roughy ($16.99), so when we go back for dinner - as we plan to do - I'm not sure which I'll choose. Oh yes, I also spotted prime rib - another special favorite of mine. Ah, what to do, what to do?

But we were here for lunch, and these days, we're simply not able to wolf down large quantities of food like we used to. Jack didn't take much time to make his choice - a batter-dipped scrod sandwich. He chose the larger version at $7.99, asking them to hold the bun. All lunches, BTW, come with fries and cole slaw.

Truth is, the scrod sounded wonderful to me as well, but I wanted to try something other than what Jack got (besides, I knew he'd offer me a bite of his). After waffling between the grilled Cajun chicken breast sandwich ($8.99) and a grilled Reuben ($9.99), I finally settled on the bleu cheeseburger on a Kaiser roll ($7.99). Since Jack got fries with his, I paid $1 more to get onion rings. 

Needless to say, we were happy with our choices. The scrod was plentiful (Jack even brought a piece home, where he gave me another bite), and the slaw was quite tasty. Usually, I'm not a big fan of slaw I didn't make myself, but I polished off almost all of my dish rather than giving it to Jack as I usually do. The fries and onion rings are good - I'm partial to the o-rings -  and my burger was yummy (at the server's prompting, I added tomato and onion, which complemented the bleu cheese perfectly). 

All that said, you can bet we'll be heading back to this place again, the sooner the better - this time for dinner. That Cajun cod has my name on it (well, okay, so does the prime rib, so we'll just have to go back at least two more times)!

If you go:

Ben's Restaurant & Bar
17729 W. Akron-Canfield Road
Berlin Center, Ohio 44401
(330) 547-7633

Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday; 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bensrestaurant1978?rf=119983394679379

CONEY ISLAND HOT DOGS BAR & GRILL

Ever since my official retirement a good 10 years ago, going out for lunch with my husband Jack has been a favorite way to spend time away from home. Now that we’re older and neither travel as far or as often after dark, these outings have become even more special - but these days, we tend to stay closer to home. We’re always up for a new place, of course, but over the years we’ve always had one or two spots where, to borrow from Cheers, everybody knows our name, the cost of the food doesn’t require the selling of our firstborn son and the beer is cold (and better still, served in a frosty mug).

Generally speaking, chain restaurants like Applebee’s and Buffalo Wild Wings - while we do enjoy them - just don’t qualify on all those counts (mostly, they're just too expensive for a quick in-and-out lunch). In the many years we lived in Niles, Ohio, we were happy to be regulars at places like the Olde Main Ale & Chowder House and Silver Nugget (neither of which is still in operation) and, in more recent years, Gasoline Alley, which has just about the best wings and burgers anywhere. Now that we’re residents of Mineral Ridge, our closest-to-home haunt is Mousie’s Ice House Inn just up the road in Austintown. 

And now, thanks to a tip from our Niles friends Jerry and Barb, we’ve been hitting this place with some degree of regularity. Initially, we stopped because we enjoy an occasional hot dog (love the Jib Jab in Girard and Hot Dog Shoppe in Warren) and wanted to see how this place compares. What we found is a neat little eatery to which we’ve returned many times simply because we’ve been made to feel welcome (and the icy cold beer on tap sure doesn’t hurt).

The decor is mostly red and black, and Ohio State Buckeyes’ fans will love all the “stuff” hanging on the walls. There’s a counter for ordering and a section of booths; it’s not a large place, so no doubt it can get a bit crowded here at peak mealtimes. Based on what we’ve seen, take-out is a big part of business as well.

What we really love, though, is the small full-service bar section off the dining area. There, we can pull up a stool, order a brewski (by now, one of the friendly bartenders knows us so well that she starts pouring our Bud Lights the minute she looks out the window and sees our car pull up). I’m not sure whether or not she knows our names, but when she starts pouring two cold ones the minute she sees our car pull in the lot, it's close enough for horseshoes. And if other folks are here, or come in while we are, it’s almost guaranteed that we’ll be included in the conversation. It’s just that kind of place.

I’ll be honest; I’m not at all fond of the chili on the dogs here (it’s different from the “usual” red chili), but judging from the number of chili dogs and chili-topped fries I see on other plates, I’m in the minority so feel free to give it a try. That said, I’m more likely to order my dogs topped with sauerkraut and onions, a touch of mustard and, when I can get them, hot peppers. And yes, the peppers here shine, so there’s no waffling by me over what goes on top of mine. Diners have a choice of the more upscale Nathan’s all-beef hot dogs or the “regular” kind; Jack usually opts for the former and I the latter (which run somewhere around $1.50 each). As one would expect, the Nathan’s dogs are more costly, but not by much.

The options on hot dog toppings are way too numerous to mention, and the specials on food and drinks vary according to the day. I’ll also point out that despite the name, this place isn’t just about canines in buns. There are fries, fish, cheeseburger, Italian sausage, meatball splash and gyro sandwiches plus a number of other goodies as well - all at quite reasonable prices. I’m especially fond of the gyro, although I caution that it’s huge and nearly impossible to pick up even with two hands. Sometimes you can get them on a buy one, get one for 99 cents deal, but it’s hard for me to imagine one person polishing off two of these puppies. I also recommend that Italian sausage, and I’m planning to try the all-you-can-eat fish dinner one of these Fridays.

If you sit at the bar, you can place your food order there; or if you prefer, place it at the counter and then pick a seat wherever you want and wait till it’s ready - never very long, in our experience. Most of the food can be eaten with fingers and is served in plastic baskets lined with paper; nothing fancy-schmancy here. So hey - any time you want to take a break from all your worries, come on in - they’ll always be glad you came!

If you go:

Coney Island Hot Dogs Bar and Grill

31 N. Canfield-Niles Road

Austintown, Ohio 44515

(330) 799-2099

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Coney-Island-Hot-Dog/100886363289643

Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday (till 9 p.m. at the drive-through); 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.

FIRE GRILL

Girard may not be the biggest town in Trumbull County, Ohio, but never let it be said there’s no place to eat. From the popular Jib Jab Hot Dog Shoppe at one end of State Street to Margherita’s on the other (not to mention several places on the side streets), this town’s got you covered breakfast, lunch and dinner.

A favorite haunt was Mikeee’s, somewhere around the middle of State Street; my husband Jack and I spent many a lazy summer afternoon on the upstairs outdoor deck and many more in the lower-level bar trying out everything we could on the extensive sandwich menu. When that ended, we were frequent visitors to the Big Family Restaurant; when that one closed, we almost cried.

But then, we got word that a new place was coming. And in early May 2014, the Fire Grill opened. Not too long afterward, we were there - hoping to find another great place – and we did. The inside is quite a change, although it remains fairly informal. It’s been redone in tones of gray, black and red with spacious booths, a fire grill at the back (hence the name) complete with a display case in front filled with tempting desserts and lots of really cool hanging lamps. It looks totally different, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

The full bar now includes a ton of specialty beers, and anyone interested in sampling can get flights on all the draughts. That’s really not our style, though, so we stuck with more traditional Yuengling at our first visit at lunchtime. Picking what we wanted to eat, though, took a bit of time. We weren’t looking for a huge meal, but we did want to sample a few things. The specialty here is barbecue - ribs, chicken, pork and beef - and on each table are bottles of special add-on sauces, mostly Carolina-style like East Carolina Vinegar, North Carolina Mustard and South Carolina Spicy Red (they’re sold by the bottle as well). As long-time vacationers at the North Carolina Outer Banks, we were happy to see those options - well, maybe not the vinegar sauce, definitely not a favorite of ours.

It took a while to decide what we wanted, even for lunch; I did consider the kielbasa-style Texas hot link sausage topped with sauteed red peppers, onions and tomato sauce on a toasted hoagie roll (plain or with jalapeno-cheddar sauce, $7.99). Finally - now on my second Yuengling - I settled on one of the daily specials, a half-order of Better-Than Maw-Maw’s Fried Green Tomatoes with soup or salad ($4.99 at the time of our visit). I chose chili as my soup, and then just for fun, I ordered an appetizer of smoked chipotle wings ($5.99). 

Jack, meanwhile, opted to try the Portabella Non-Burger, a fire-grilled whole portabella mushroom marinated in homemade balsamic vinegar and topped with charred romaine, grilled tomato and Asiago cheese ($6.99). With it he chose cole slaw, and got a surprise: our server asked whether he wanted mayonnaise or vinegar style (he picked the latter and said it was delicious).

The wings, the menu said, are put in the smoker first and then fried and tossed in Chipotle butter sauce. The flavor was excellent, and I enjoyed them despite not being a fan of getting thick red goo all over me. The chili, too, was outstanding and a bit different, with smoked beef brisket, ground beef, red kidney beans, plum tomatoes, onions and peppers. 

The tomatoes were coated with panko bread crumbs, topped with creamy bleu cheese sauce, sprinkled with scallions and finished with balsamic glaze reduction - definitely not like mother used to make. They were wonderful, although they were fried a bit too crispy for my liking - we old folks are always worried about breaking teeth. For the record, they’re also available as an appetizer.

Within a couple of weeks, we returned - this time with friends Jerry and Barb from Niles in tow. We arrived about 5:30 p.m. on a Friday and were seated immediately, but by the time we left, there had to be at least 20 people waiting for a table. We made a mental note to get here before 5 p.m. for dinner (though our usual plan when eating out is to have a late lunch somewhere between 1 p.m. and 2 p.m., typically a slower time for most restaurants).

But once we were seated, it seemed we sat there forever until one of us caught a server’s eye and she came fairly quickly. Because of the long wait, we’d had plenty of time to peruse the menu and make our choices, so we placed our drink and food orders at the same time. Shortly thereafter, we got a visit from the owner, who was checking up on us (I know at least one of our group had a scowl on her face at that point - me - which probably signaled that the natives at our table were a bit restless. He was very nice, and among other things told us that the outdoor balcony upstairs should be open soon. At this point, it’s winter, so we’ll check back when the weather improves.

Jack’s choice for dinner was the Caprese flatbread ($6.99) with a side of macaroni and cheese ($3.99). Jerry picked the Southern Pulled Pork sandwich, which comes with fries, for $7.99. Barb and I both went for the Braggin’ Rights Brisket sandwich -mine with fries and hers with the vinegar-based coleslaw (both $9.99).

Jack was delighted with the flatbread - six rather large squares topped with Roma tomatoes, red onions and roasted garlic topped with fresh basil, melted mozzarella cheese and drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. The mac and cheese is a bit different, with a crumb coating, and he deemed it outstanding.

Jerry was happy with his pulled pork sandwich, and Barb and I absolutely loved the brisket, which is shredded to make the sandwich. It comes with some kind of mayonnaise-based sauce, but there wasn’t much of it and the flavor isn’t the least bit overwhelming. I opted to add a bit more flavor from the bottles of sauces on the table - this time choosing the delicious Kansas City Sweet.

My only beef? Nowhere - not on the website, the Facebook page, the menu or even the restaurant’s front door - have I been able to find when the place is open for the entire week. Finally, the hours I’ve added below turned up on an obscure restaurant review site, but I advise anyone wanting to make advance plans to visit to call to be sure they’re accurate.

If you go:

Fire Grill

30 N. State St.

Girard, Ohio 44420

(330) 545-4755

http://www.firegrillbbq.com

Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday.

DAVIDSON'S RESTAURANT/TAVERN

Every time I read negative reviews of anything - from movies to music CDs to restaurants - I take them with a grain of salt. I know that, in general, far more people who had a bad experience will speak up than those who enjoyed themselves. For better or worse, that’s just the nature of the human beasts.

My husband Jack and I have driven past Davidson’s Restaurant/Tavern in Cornersburg, Ohio, countless times - almost every time saying we really should stop one of these days. When we mentioned it not too long ago to our friend Barb from Niles, she told us she’s a fairly frequent visitor and enjoys the food. But when I went online to see what other people think, it was a bit disheartening. Lousy service, one said. Long wait for mediocre food, said another.

So chalking it up to the fact that the squeaky wheel usually gets the most publicity, we said what the heck - let's go. Granted, we also needed to use up a couple of about-to-expire coupons from the 2014 Entertainment Book (basically BOGOs for lunch and/or dinner), so we knew if we didn’t like it the first time around, we could call it quits without much of a loss and no one would be the wiser. And if we did, we'd go back; it’s rare for me to visit any restaurant just once before writing a review - a single visit just isn't enough to provide a fair appraisal, IMHO.

But after one very favorable lunchtime visit, we promised ourselves we’d be using that second coupon for dinner - and we did, with equally happy results. And that means yes, we’ll be back for thirds, fourths and more, coupon or not.

For openers, the place is huge; there are at least three dining areas, and the bar isn’t exactly small and has its own entrance. We picked the bar when we made our first visit, in part because one reviewer said that’s the best place and in the other part because it’s our usual preference no matter where we go. We picked a high table at one wall; there are several TV sets and sports memorabilia on the walls, making us feel right at home.

So did our server, who was very friendly and helpful and managed to find us quickly even though we’d bypassed any kind of check-in process as we made our way to the bar. We ordered a couple of draughts while we perused the very extensive menu (and we both noticed that the beer here is colder than just about anywhere else we’ve been - a real plus for me in particular). I’d read that the chicken breast sandwich with Italian greens is a winner here, so I gave that some serious consideration right off the bat. But then there are several wraps and at least 25 “regular” sandwich possibilities, from a Black & Bleu Burger (yum!) to a Reuben to Pepper ‘n’ Egg - mostly in the $8 to $9 range, so choosing isn’t a walk in the park.

The dinner menu is even more extensive (I eyeballed it even though we were there for lunch). I made a mental note to check out the Linguine Diablo, in fact, if and when we came at dinnertime ($16.95).

Ultimately, though, I decided on a hot sausage sandwich (always a favorite of mine) topped with peppers and melted provolone, at $8.95. There’s a choice of peppers, so I happily went for the hot sport peppers and onions on top. As a side, I picked another favorite - wedding soup.

Meanwhile, Jack decided on the portabella sandwich, marinated and chargrilled with roasted red peppers and melted provolone cheese on a toasted garlic Kaiser roll for $8.25. All sandwiches come with “Fair” fries or a cup of soup. Other options are possible if you want to ante up $1.50 more, which we did not.

The wedding soup wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but it was quite tasty and filled with several larger-than-usual meatballs, some chicken chunks and greens. It was also hot, which seems to be a rarity these days. Most of what I’ve been getting ranges from very warm to tepid - and one of these days, I swear I’m going to make them take it back and heat it up. No problem with that here, though.

My sandwich turned out to be two sausage patties rather than the link variety, and it was very tasty. There’s no marinara or other red sauce, but that’s the way I prefer it. The peppers weren’t what I’d call plentiful, but they sure were hot - just my style. Jack’s portabella sandwich was delicious as well, and he said those roasted red peppers really “put it over the top.”

As it turned out, we came back around 4 p.m. a week or so later, this time opting for a booth in one of the dining rooms instead of the bar. Once again, we ordered draughts while we looked over the menu (dinner items can be ordered just about any time, but the daily specials begin at 4 p.m., our server told us). We were using an about-to-expire coupon from the 2014 Entertainment Book, which doesn’t include the specials, but with so many items from which to choose that wasn’t an issue in the slightest. Our server brought a basket of warm, crusty rolls and butter - absolutely delicious, and yes, we took her up on the offer of a second basket. Although I’d had my eye on that Linguine Diablo - shrimp, scallops, clams and hot peppers sauteed in spicy marinara sauce - I wasn’t quite willing to ante up 17 bucks until I’d made sure I like the red sauce here. I actually considered liver and onions at $9.95 - an old favorite I rarely make at home any more. But truth is, only once in my life have I had it at a restaurant, mostly because (she says with no modesty whatsoever), I make the best darned liver and onions in the world and don’t want to chance getting something that doesn’t measure up.

Always a fish lover, I ended up picking the baked whitefish filet, and after discussing it with our server I went with the butter crust instead of lemon-pepper ($13.95). For a second I considered adding a buck to get it blackened, but then I backed down. It didn’t take Jack long to pick the beef tenderloin tips over noodles ($11.95); the beef is sauteed in olive oil and garlic and tossed with mushrooms, roasted peppers and onions.

Both of our entrees came with a salad, and Jack got his usual Thousand Island (a double dose) and I stuck with plain old ranch. The salads were rather nondescript, with “okay” greens and shredded carrots that tasted a little stale. Only I, Jack was quick to point out, was lucky enough to get a cherry tomato (but he did get two containers of dressing as he’d requested - something that doesn’t always happen).

The bowl of beef tips, which were over bowtie pasta, was on the large side and the taste was satisfactory but nothing particularly special, Jack said. On the other hand, my fish was outstanding - two fairly large filets - and the butter crumb topping the server recommended was not only tasty, but very light and full of flavor; I usually avoid breaded fish because it can be crunchy enough to break a tooth, but this was wonderful. Better still, the fish was flaky and tender, and the filets were large enough that I brought one home. The rice pilaf was so-so, but although it was on the dry side, it had more flavor than I’ve had in many restaurants (one reason I don’t order it very often). Despite the large bowl, Jack wasted no time cleaning out - nothing left but a couple of bow ties.

Bottom line is we’ve found a great place - easy to stop on the way home from one of our frequent forays to Mill Creek Park. After all, I’ve still got my heart set on that Linguine Diablo!

If you go:

Davidson’s Restaurant/Tavern

3636 Canfield Road

Canfield (Cornersburg), Ohio 44406

(330) 793-0033

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Davidsons-RestaurantTavern/275970425801913

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week.

BEEF O'BRADY'S

The first Beef O’Brady’s opened in Brandon, Florida, in 1985, so the chain isn’t all that new. And although I spent more time than I really wanted to trying to track down how many are in operation today, the best I could do is a report claims there were about 215 franchises in several states as of January 2011. On the downside, I also turned up a report naming the franchise to a list of 11 that posted the highest rates of failure of their federally guaranteed loans used to buy them in the first place. The financial issues may or may not have been resolved by now - and all I know

(or, for that matter, care much about) - is that there’s now one in Cortland. My husband Jack and I drove past a couple of times on our way home from photography outings at Ashtabula Harbor and/or Mosquito Lake State Park before it opened, saying each time that we’d have to stop in for a bite once the place got up and running. That finally happened this past Veterans’ Day, when the place was close to full when we arrived about 1 p.m. The parking lot is smallish and a bit tough to navigate (heaven help those driving vehicles with a wide turning radius), but we got lucky and found an open spot. Ditto with a booth; there might have been one other unoccupied table when we came through the doors.

Turns out there’s a small bar/pub at the back of the place, and it, as well as the main dining area, is nice although with a sort of nondescript decor. Sports memorabilia from the Cleveland Browns, Pittsburgh Steelers and Lakeview Bulldogs and 12 big-screen TV sets line the walls - most of the latter tuned to sports shows. Once we’d settled in and ordered a couple of beers from what we call the “normal” list - there’s a large number on tap including lots of funky stuff - we began to peruse the menu. And boy, is there ever plenty to peruse, from burgers to flatbreads to ribs and wings and just about anything in between. I gave up and simply gravitated toward items marked as “signature” dishes, and in the end Jack did the same. He picked the fish ‘N’ Chips basket ($10.49), which includes four fried, beer-battered cod fillets with tartar sauce, fries and coleslaw. I was determined to sample the beef, so my choice was the Roast Beef Garlic Melt ($8.79), with sliced onions and provolone cheese pressed on garlic Cuban bread. Fries are standard, by the way, but there are several items, like onion rings and chili, that can be substituted for $1.99 more. We might make a switch on our next visit, but the fries were exceptionally good, so then again, maybe not. When the food arrived, Jack really liked the tasty fish and the coleslaw. Just one bite of my sandwich made my taste buds sing - the beef was exceptionally tender and full of flavor - and with the second bite I realized it’s also the saltiest beef I’ve ever had (this coming from someone who tends to salt restaurant food without even tasting it; thank goodness I hadn’t done it this time out). So although I smacked my lips as I happily ate the whole thing, I told Jack - who’s on a low-sodium diet - that the bite I allowed him to sample probably exceeded his sodium allowance for the week. As it turns out, that’s not too far off; a bit of online research on nutritional values confirmed that the sandwich alone (i.e., without the fries), contains 3,940 mg of sodium. Whew! But flavor? My sandwich definitely had that “wow” factor; just for that alone, I knew we’d be making a return visit; given the sodium content on much of the food, we won’t stop often, though - once every several months will have to do. But because I wanted to write a review, we relaxed our rule a bit and made another trip in early December. Jack stuck with the fish and chips - again with that tasty coleslaw, but I decided a burger might be a good choice. There are about nine on the menu, including a build-your-own version for $7.99, but when I spotted the Amarillo Firecracker at $9.99 - called a “new” item at the time of our visit - I knew it was the perfect choice for me. An Angus burger is topped with bacon, fried jalapenos, pepper jack cheese and sweet jalapeno mayo - be still my pepper-loving heart. All burgers, the menu says, are seasoned with a blend of kosher salt and black pepper (there goes that sodium raising its head again), and they can be ordered medium, medium well (my choice) or well done. Because we loved the fries, we didn’t bother trying a substitute (especially since they all cost an extra two bucks). But we got a big surprise this time out - and not a particularly good one; this time out, the fries were a big disappointment. They were thinner, didn’t seem to have much flavor and, simply put, just weren’t up to par. I, of course, was looking forward to a sandwich filled with the zing of hot peppers. Alas, as far as the firecracker was concerned, I didn’t feel the heat, but I sure felt the love - it was absolutely delicious and cooked perfectly to order. In fact, it was so good I ate the whole thing - very unusual for me. The only suggestion I have is that sandwiches should be served with a sharp knife; even the burgers are too big to pick up whole, and I’m here to tell you that trying to cut a bacon-topped burger in half with a table knife is darned near impossible.

Oh yes, one other thing: I searched both the corporate website and the local restaurant's Facebook page, and while I found the address and phone number, nowhere could I find the hours the place is open (except for the day you happen to check on Facebook). C'mon, guys, it's not fair to force people to call ahead; the only reason I can think of for not posting hours is that they're subject to change with little notice. And that's definitely not a good sign!

If you go:

Beef O’Brady’s
3660 Niles-Cortland Road
Cortland, Ohio 44410
(330) 400-4815

Open for lunch and dinner


http://www.beefobradys.com