MARINO'S ITALIAN CAFE (REVISITED)

Those who have followed my restaurant reviews in the past know that until I left my parents' farm for college in 1959, my idea of Italian food was opening a can of Chef Boyardee (no, that's not a joke). But college was a game-changer; since the dormitories at Kent State University didn't serve meals on Sundays back then, hungry students had to fend for themselves. Those who didn't opt for shakes and burgers at Lujan's gravitated toward The Stag bar. And that's where I had my first taste of authentic spaghetti sauce - so good it was almost a religious experience. Real pizza came a little later at the long-gone Jerry's Inn on Mason Street in Niles - which is where I learned to love icy cold beer as well, though I had to settle for the low-powered (3.2) stuff because I wasn't yet 21.

After I got married, I relocated to my husband Jack's home turf of Niles, where I swear there's an Italian restaurant on practically every corner. The U.S. Route 422 "Strip" was a gold mine of opportunity; who can forget Alberini's? Or Jimmy Chieffo's? Or El Rio or Cafe 422 (the latter is still going strong, by the way).

Along the way, I've even learned to cook a few Italian specialties, but my culinary efforts don't hold a candle to any of the wonderful area restaurants. Marino's Italian Cafe is among them - and I reviewed it in this blog way back in 2010 after visiting with a couple of friends. Happily, our move something like eight years ago to Mineral Ridge put us just several stones' throws from the restaurant, located just around the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue in Austintown.

When we stopped in recently with that same couple to celebrate a birthday, I decided it's time for an updated review. The atmosphere is very relaxed here, with a row of booths against one wall and tables filling the rest of the room - with one exception: one wall houses the buffet stand; a lunch buffet is served Wednesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ($13.99) and Saturday nights ($19.99). But this was late afternoon, and once we were seated in a booth, our first request of the server wasn't for drinks, but rather whether we'd get a basket of Mama Marino's famous rolls - buttery delicious and still warm from the oven. Absolutely, she replied, eliciting smiles of anticipation all around.

Needless to say, the menu is full of Italian specialties - from appetizers like lightly fried calamari and sauteed greens (add homemade hot peppers for a small upcharge if you want) to wedding soup and caprese salad (a favorite of mine), Italian staples like calzones and pizza and ravioli (another favorite of mine), linguine with white or red clam sauce ande manicotti filled ricotta topped with tomato or Alfredo sauce. And more. Plenty more. Entree prices are quite reasonable, with a plate of basic spaghetti with marinara at $8.99 and that aforementioned linguine with clam sauce at $15.99. All prices I mention here, of course, are what we paid at the time of our visit.

On this, our "official" visit, we started with shared appetizers as is our custom. The aforementioned friends, hereafter known as Jerry and Barb (because, well, those are their names and as far as I know they have no need to remain anonymous) chose bruschetta, bread topped with red peppers, olive oil, various spices and cheese and drizzled with balsamic vinegar and chopped tomatoes and very tasty ($8.49). Also as is our custom, I opted for hot peppers in oil - less of a search for great flavor and more of a quest to check the extent to which said peppers qualify as "hot." The peppers here are quite flavorful ($7.99), but from the perspective of my cast iron stomach there's no heat to speak of, so I probably won't get them again. But I'll also note that they had too much "kick" for any of my three companions so consider the source (and yes, I ate the entire plate all by myself).

For our entrees, I got meat-filled ravioli (big surprise, huh?) with marinara sauce - no meatball - with wedding soup as a side instead of the crispy salads chosen by my three companions.  The wedding soup, for the record, is just about the tastiest I've ever had at a restaurant; better still, it arrived actually hot. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to be served a cup or bowl of lukewarm soup, which unfortunately seems to be the norm (one of these days when it arrives that way, I'm going to work up the courage to send it back to be properly heated up). I'm not sure the reasoning behind it - if it's to protect customers from burning their lips or tongues, a simple "Be careful, this is quite hot" warning from the server will suffice for me, thank you very much.

Barb chose ravioli as well, but opted for the lobster-stuffed special of the day topped with a blend of Alfredo and marinara, if I recall correctly (diners can opt for whatever sauce they want on their pasta). The sauce was absolutely delicious - she graciously shared a bite - but it was so rich I might have made it through one ravioli but not an entire plateful. Jack chose crab-stuffed whitefish - delicious also, but the fish, as is not usual for those of us who buy it at inland restaurants, was cooked a little too dead for my tastes. Jerry's birthday meal was veal marsala ($17.99). Honestly, I forgot to ask him if he liked it, but I did notice that his plate was clean when we finished up so I'll go out on a limb and assume he did.

Also worth noting is that Marino's has a wide selection of carry-out catering items to feed a crowd, such as eggplant parmesan, sausage with peppers and onions and lasagna plus that wonderful wedding soup ($15 a quart) and rolls ($7 a dozen). As I've mentioned before, we typically make restaurant stops at off hours, in large part to avoid crowds and waiting. Marino's is relatively small, though, and I've seen the parking lot with every single slot occupied on many occasions. To be on the safe side especially when you'll need four or more seats, I advise calling ahead to see if reservations are advisable. Then go. Mangia!

If you go:

Marino's Italian Cafe
5423 Mahoning Ave.
Youngstown, Ohio 44515
(330) 799-8326

http://www.marinositaliancafe.com

Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Closed Monday

ICE HOUSE INN

If you've ever driven on State Route 46 from Austintown to Niles, you've probably noticed the upside-down sign marking the Ice House Inn at the corner of Webb Road. A popular watering hole and community gathering place for many, many years, the Ice House has undergone renovations inside and out, including the menu.

Oh, it's still a community bar, and if you go on a Bike Night (or for that matter, just about any night much beyond 6 p.m.), you'll have a tough time getting a seat inside. Most often, my husband Jack and I show up for lunch or, as old folks like us are wont to do, an early dinner. If we're just snacking, we'll pick one of the high tables close to the bar; when we're eating something more substantial and need more room to spread out, we'll choose one of the booths on the other side of the bar partition. I love the booth tables, which are inlaid with colorful "business cards" from [mostly] local companies.


Still another section is used for live entertainment set-ups, small parties and such. To be sure, the place hosts great parties; we've attended a few (it's rare for us to go out for an evening since neither of us enjoys driving after dark, but this place is so close to our house that if we could crawl as the crow flies, we'd be home in no time). It's no holds barred for really special occasions like New Year's Eve and, more recently, Super Bowl Sunday.

Wings have long been a specialty of the house here, and we know quite a few folks who rave about them. Quite honestly, until a year or so ago, we weren't that impressed; but lately, we've been raving as well. Boneless versions are available now for those who are so inclined - I still want to pick around the bones, thank you very much. They're meatier now, and the sauces are quite tasty (the butter garlic, lemon pepper and teriyaki come to mind immediately). A dozen goes for $10.99; usually, though, Jack opts for something else and I get six of the butter garlic for $5.99.


For the record, other sauces include mild, hot, gold rush, barbecue, ranch and parmesan; if you want extra sauce, add 50 cents. Wings also are available for carryout; 50 cost $39.99.

On Mondays and Wednesdays, wings are 50 cents each, by the way, so we try to remember to stop in then when we're in the mood for the popular appendages. And while we're on the subject of specials, the Ice House serves up prime rib beginning at 4 p.m. every Saturday for $10.99. Honestly, I haven't tried it yet, but it's very near the top of my food bucket list.

Sandwiches are always a good choice, and both of us are especially fond of the Greek Gyro ($6.99). I love the chicken park sandwich, a lightly breaded  breast topped with mozzarella cheese and marinara sauce for $7.99. Also tasty are the Reuben, chicken and greens and 1/2-pound sausage patty - you won't leave hungry, that's for sure (all sandwiches come with fries).


With the remodeling has come a very welcome expanded dinner menu - and just about everythings sounds delicious. On our most recent visit, Jack tried the fish & chips ($8.99), ordering cole slaw and pasta - the latter spaghetti with red sauce - while I wanted the fried perch with pasta and a salad ($9.99). Alas, mine wasn't to be; the perch wasn't available on the day of our visit, so I made  last-minute switch to that chicken parm sandwich. While we waited, we sipped one of the beer specials for the day - bottles of Bud for just a buck. 

I expected the standard fries with my sandwich, but when our orders came I was happy to see they'd given me the pasta I'd wanted with the perch that wasn't to be. The reason? There are a number of pasta dinners on the menu, from plain old pasta and two meatballs to chicken parmesan (a breast fried, topped with mozzarella and marinara over pasta to chicken diablo (not peppers in marinara sauce with chicken over the pasta of the day). Since I'm always leery of ordering nothing but pasta unless I've tasted the sauce, I figured I'd try it as a side before shelling out the 11 bucks or so for the dinner version.

In fact, the sauce was quite tasty - so when and if I'm in the mood, I won't hesitate to order one of the pasta dinners. Between the two of us, we had quite a bit left over to take home, and a couple of days later we learned it heats up quite well.

If you go:

Ice House Inn
5516 W. Webb Road
Austintown, Ohio 44515
(330) 544-8800

Open from 9 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday; 7 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Sunday.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ice-House-Inn/110580002328124

ROTELLI

Editor's note: When my husband and I stopped for lunch at the Rotelli restaurant in Austintown, Ohio, on Aug. 25, we found a sign on the door saying this location is closed. No word yet on whether the locations in Liberty Township or Boardman have closed as well, so stay tuned!

Some might think that the last thing the Mahoning Valley needs is another Italian restaurant, but when one of the newer kids on the block is Rotelli, I think it's a welcome addition. Headquartered in Boca Raton, Fla., parent company Rotelli Pizza and Pasta Inc. has stores in six states including Ohio and Pennsylvania. Locally, there are restaurants in Austintown, Liberty and Boardman townships.

My husband Jack and I noticed the place some time ago when we'd stopped at the corner of State Route 46 and Mahoning Avenue for a treat at the Cold Stone Creamery in the shopping plaza there. Making a mental note that we should check it out sometime, I then discovered a couple of coupons in that year's Entertainment Book -- and that was all it took to get us inside the doors.

Having a discount coupon is a good incentive to get us to try a restaurant, but we certainly won't return if the food isn't great. That's certainly not the case at Rotelli; we've eaten here many times since that first stop -- with and without coupons -- and we really love the food.

The restaurant is fairly small and not what I'd describe as fancy, but there's a very Italian flavor that shows up in paintings and other decor (not to mention the wonderful smells coming from the kitchen at the back). There's a small bar near the kitchen, too, as well as comfortable booths and tables. We've never come here at peak mealtime hours, and so far, we've never had a problem being seated immediately.

One of our measures of a good restaurant may not be something anyone else cares about, but for folks like us who enjoy beer or wine with our meals, it's important that they don't cost more than the meals do. Most of the time, there's a special deal going (recently, for instance, it was Sam Adams Summer Ale at two bottles for $5). Nothing is on tap here, by the way, but neither is anything outrageously priced.

Alcohol isn't the only thing that's on special here, either; Rotelli is known for its "World Famous Lunch Special," which consists of one slice of pizza, soup or a salad and half of a submarine sandwich -- a very good deal for just $5.99. Sandwich choices include chicken, eggplant or meatball parmigiana, grilled spa chicken, Italian combo or ham and cheese. And, at most locations, Tuesday night is "Pizza Night," when a 16-inch hand-tossed cheese pizza goes for under $7 at most locations. Still other specials are posted on a board just inside the entrance.

Also a nice (and delicious) touch is the basket of hot rolls; you don't get butter, but it's really not needed, either. The tops are nicely browned, buttery and sprinkled with garlicky cheese sprinkles; we've fallen into the trap of eating them all before our entrees arrived, ending up with not much room left for the main part of our meals.

The first time we ate here, my entree of choice was Penne Chicken and Broccoli, and I'm happy to say I've ordered it most of the times we've come here -- yes, it's that good. You get a substantial bowl of grilled chicken, sauteed broccoli, garlic and fresh tomatoes in a "light" white wine sauce over penne; even the lunch portion is large enough that I always bring some home. The broccoli is tender but not mushy, and the grilled chicken flavor is distinctive. It is that wine sauce, though, that really makes this dish a standout.

Once in a while, though, I feel more adventurous -- and I'm happy to report that I've yet to be disappointed. One entree that's become a favorite is Angel Hair Alla Rotelli; this one is loaded with mushrooms, artichokes, peas and sun-dried tomatoes in basil garlic white wine sauce. Here's another: Ziti Diavolo, in which garlic, onions, green peppers, sauteed sausage and chicken breast chunks are covered with hot Sicilian sauce (this one packs a zing).

Just recently, I discovered four new pastas on the menu for $9.99 each; the one with red and green roasted peppeers, roasted garlic and onions with nothing more than olive oil sounded great -- and it was. The flavor was very mild and I added some salt and red pepper seeds for zest, but I'd get it again in a heartbeat. As with most entrees, you can choose the type of pasta you want -- I picked plain old spaghetti. The bowl was large enough that I brought about half of it home.

Lunchtime options include fresh pizza -- traditional or gourmet -- that are excellent, as well as a number of calzones, stromboli and those aforementioned subs. Lunch and dinner entrees, by the way, come with either soup or a salad. We both love the wedding soup here; the broth is extremely flavorful and it's filled with chunks of chicken, tiny meatballs, loads of greens and a few carrots. Most times, though, Jack opts for clam chowder, which he says is quite delicious.

On one of my adventurous outings recently, I decided to try pasta fagioli. I've never been particularly fond of it, but this one I wouldn't hesitate to try again. The broth was light red and slightly creamy -- nowhere near heavy -- and swimming inside were finely chopped carrots, tomatoes and teensy sewer pipe-style pasta. Yum!

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention a couple of Jack's favorites; topping the list is linguine with spicy red clam sauce -- and no, it's not too spicy for him (I, on the other hand, am a firm believer that tomato sauce and fish don't play well together and prefer the white clam sauce, which is delicious as well). Jack also loves the eggplant parmigiana, which includes a layer of ricotta cheese and is baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It includes a side of pasta. The lunch portion, which is quite substantial, costs just $6.99.

Most recently, as we returned home from photographing the gorgeous dahlias in the garden at Mill Creek Park, I noticed several tilapia entrees on the specials board, all priced at $10.99. Fish-lover that I am, I couldn't resist trying the version that was almond encrusted with a light balsamic glaze in a Tuscan cream sauce of garlic shallots, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and pepperoncini. It arrived in a huge bowl and was loaded with tender artichoke slices, and a few hot banana peppers cut thin added a bit of zing. There were two good-sized filets of breaded tilapia, and the sauce was exceptionally thick and rich (almost too rich -- I could barely eat half, but then I'd also pigged out on those rolls). It came with a side of pasta, and my choice was plain old spaghetti. The sauce is relatively sweet and chunky with chopped tomatoes rather than a heavy marinara or meat sauce. It's quite tasty, although for me, it only works as a side dish; I don't like it quite well enough to make it an entree.

A newer addition to Rotelli is a lunch buffet, which offers nine items for $5.99 and is available from 11 a.m. till 2 p.m. In the interest of full disclosure, we haven't tried it yet -- it's that new -- but next time we're out here at lunchtime, we'll make it a point to make it our choice.

If you go:

ROTELLI
5553 Mahoning Ave.
Youngstown, Ohio 44515 (Austintown)
(330) 270-8349
www.rotellipizzapasta.com