FISHER'S CAFE & PUB

Autumn is my favorite time of the year -- even if my allergies don't agree -- so we've been running thither and yon of late to chase the reds, golds and browns of the changing leaves before they all fall off and we're faced with the vast photographic wasteland we call winter. Most often, that means visiting a park, and one of the biggies is Ohio's vast Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

Truth is, the park has plenty to offer most of the year, whether it be watching the great blue herons building nests at their rookery in May, cheering on our "side" during the lively Civil War reenactment at Hale Farm and Village in August or hitching a ride on the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad in the fall.

Needless to say, we tend to get hungry along the way; and happily, we've found a wonderful place at which to satisfy our cravings each time we head in this direction: Fisher's Cafe & Pub in Peninsula. In summer, we might enjoy a cool salad or wrap sandwich on the outdoor patio in summer. When the weather heads toward nasty, we'll snuggle up inside with a hearty bowl of Canal Chili.

That chili, by the way, is the original recipe created by George Fisher Sr., who founded the restaurant back in 1958 (the year my husband Jack graduated from high school). A bowl will set you back just $3.99 unless you prefer to "deluxe" it up with cheddar cheese and sour cream toppings -- in which case you'll pay an extra buck.

The cafe, I should add, is now in its third generation, under the ownership of "Grandpa George's" son Dick Fisher. Grandson Rich Fisher is the manager (or so the Web site says).

On the downside, the view from the outdoor deck isn't all that wonderful despite Peninsula's location smack dab in the middle of the national park, but you can get a taste of Main Street activity in the historic village. And, the restaurant folks have added lots of plants and flowers as a buffer between the pub and parking lot.

When we're inside, we usually sit on the smaller bar side, where there's lots of dark wood complemented by dark green and mauve and windows to let the sunshine in. Fisher's isn't exceptionally large, so it can get pretty crowded during peak eating hours. This is a very casual place, so as a warning to those who might care, the sandwich and salad choices outnumber the dinner entrees.

There's nothing wimpy about the appetizer list, though -- there are at least a dozen to choose from, including my favorite, battered eggplant fries ($6.29). These tasty strips, topped with grated Parmesan cheese, are served with a delicious bistro sauce, making them almost a meal in and of themselves. More than once, in fact, I've ordered the eggplant fries and the spinach artichoke dip (filled with marinated artichokes and oodles of Parmesan cheese) instead of an entree.

You can, and we often do, substitute those eggplant fries for one of the "regular" sides for an extra $1.59 -- an option I always request when I'm ordering a sandwich or dinner entree.

Still another favorite appetizer is the grilled Caribbean shrimp ($7.49); the main seasonings are Jamaican spices and basting with a spicy sauce. These are so special, in fact, that we actually crave them -- even to the point of including them in a Business Journal article on appetizers that are worth driving out of the local area to get.

When it comes to sandwiches, you'll have a tough time deciding what you want (which, I suppose, is a good thing for the restaurant since you'll have to come back to try others). We do recommend the grilled yellow fin tuna sub, which is basted in teriyaki-honey glaze and topped with pineapple salsa ($8.99).

Jack's especially fond of the Philly Steak & Cheese sandwich, with thin slices of meat plus grilled onions, mushrooms and melted Swiss cheese ($8.29). The burgers here are outstanding as well, with a couple of more unusual offerings. There's the Raider Burger, in honor of the University of Mount Union (nee Mount Union College) Raiders -- half a pound of meat topped with bacon, cheddar cheese, fries, hot wing sauce, jalapeno peppers, onion tanglers and blackened with Cajun spices -- whew!

Or, there's the Spicy Black Bean Burger, a low-fat vegetarian treat topped with lettuce and tomato (which I admit I haven't tried, nor will I ever -- I dislike black beans almost as much as cucumbers)!

Don't like burgers? Choose from a long list of chicken sandwiches and wraps; most of the latter have grilled chicken as the meat and various fillings to make them different.

On our most recent visit, I enjoyed the Bourbon Street Chicken sandwich with lettuce, tomato and barbecue sauce ($8.29), while Jack couldn't pass up his favorite Philly Steak & Cheese. My chicken breast was exceptionally tender and juicy and the bourbon sauce had just the right amount of "kick." I substituted those eggplant fries, while Jack stuck with the regular kind.

At first glance, I thought perhaps I'd made a mistake by ordering them this time -- the outside looked dark and crispy as if they'd been deep-fried too long -- but I quickly learned that looks can be deceiving. Not only were they not over-cooked, they were tender and flavorful as usual. Best of all was the accompanying thousand island-type dip that seemed to be abundantly laced with horseradish, although it really wasn't hot at all. In fact, the heat-hating Jack loved it too, sneaking in dips with his "regular" fries when he thought he could get away without getting his hand smacked.

If you want a lighter meal, be sure to check out the dinner salads, simply because they're wonderful. My favorite is the Strawberry Mandarin Salad, with fresh strawberries, mandarin oranges, grapes, dried cranberries and walnuts with or without grilled chicken. I prefer the wild raspberry dressing, but there are plenty of other options.

As I mentioned earlier, the list of entrees is a bit less lengthy -- the menu at the Web site lists just seven. But that's certainly not a problem in my eyes given the choices. How about the 6-ounce Caribbean bourbon salmon filet ($16.99) or a half-slab of hickory smoked pork ribs with Fisher’s award-winning barbecue sauce ($11.99).

There are a couple of steaks, too -- New York strip and top sirloin. Fish-lovers have a couple of choices besides the salmon, such as beer battered cod and a catfish fillet. If you try either, let me know how you like it, though -- I avoid breading on fish whenever possible, and I simply don't care for catfish (or oysters, if anybody cares to know).

When you stop here for lunch, dinner or anything in between, do try to leave some extra time to roam the village streets. The village has been deemed a national historic district, and the reason is evident in the array of small shops, restaurants and galleries that line the streets. If you want, you can hop aboard the scenic railway at the Peninsula Depot as well.

If you go: Fisher's Cafe & Pub
1607 Main St.
Peninsula, Ohio
(330) 657-2651
http://www.fisherscafe.com

Fall 2010 hours: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Check the Web site for seasonal events, hours and prices.