Thursday, July 15, 2010

TONY PACKO'S

Blogger's note: In the introduction to this blog at the left, I warned readers I'd stray from the local region from time to time. This is one of those times -- and if you're ever anywhere near Toledo, Ohio, I hope you won't miss this place.

“I think I’ve died and gone to Heaven” probably isn’t the best
way to describe an outstanding culinary experience. But if you ever get the chance to eat at Tony Packo’s, I think you'll understand.

If the name sounds a bit familiar, it should. Jamie Farr, who played Corporal Max Klinger on the pop
ular show “M*A*S*H,” is a native of Toledo, Ohio. In one of the episodes, Klinger told a newspaper reporter that Tony Packo’s had the “greatest Hungarian hot dogs” – and the reference subsequently was written into five more shows plus the final episode in 1983.

About four years ago, my husband Jack and I had reason to visit Toledo, and since w
e were familiar with the “M*A*S*H” reference, the restaurant was at the top of our list of places to have a meal. Since then, we’ve been back several times -- twice accompanied by new-to-Packo's friends -- and we've placed a couple of orders for non-perishable goodies online to enjoy back at home as well.

In fact, Packo’s has b
een a staple in Toledo since Tony Packo, the son of Hungarian immigrants, opened a sandwich and ice cream shop in 1932 with his wife, Rose. In 1935, they needed more space and purchased a distinctive wedge-shaped building at the intersection of Front and Consaul streets. Today, there are five locations in the Toledo area, but if you're a first-timer, this is the only way to go.

Dining here is quite an experience; the restaurant retains an authentic ethnic flavor, complete with red-and-white checked oilclot
h on the tables. You can’t miss what has become a Tony Packo’s tradition; when celebrities visit here, they “autograph” a hot dog bun, which is then hermetically sealed in plastic and hung on the wall (for the record, a server let us in on a secret -- the buns aren't real). Plenty of big names have been “hot doggers” here over the years, from Alice Cooper to Bill and Hillary Clinton to Jerry Seinfeld to The Donald (for the full story on how this came about, visit Packo's Web site).

Since what we eat here hasn't varied much over the years, I'll reference our most recent visit earlier this month, when we traveled to Maumee Bay State Park in Oregon, Ohio (just outside Toledo) to attend the Toledo Harbor Lighthouse Waterfront Festival. Since we couldn't check into our motel till mid-afternoon, once we'd made our initial tour of the festival grounds, we headed into town for a much-anticipated lunch at Packo's. And I must say, we certainly weren't disappointed -- not that for one second we ex
pected to be. The menu isn't what I'd call expansive in terms of the number of choices, but there's more than enough here to satisfy any family member of any age. Hey, lives there a kid out there who refuses to eat hot dogs?

If you want, you can start with an appetizer; for something a bit different, try the fried pickles (Packo's original pickles and peppers breaded and deep fried and served with a choice of dipping sauces. Or, how about a "Chili Sundae?" No ice cream, but the restaurant's delicious chili layered with sour cream and shredded lettuce in a sundae glass with warm taco chips on the side.


The chili, in fact, is a huge part of my "to-die-for" reasoning; it's survived more than seven decades after its introduction, and it's absolutely delicious (with awards to prove it). Filled with finely chopped meat, chili beans and oodles of flavor, it packs a decent, but not off-putting, "heat" wallop.

The best way to get the full flavor of the Packo's experience, in my humble opinion, is to stick with one of the simple classics. On our most recent visit, for instance, w
e both ordered Tony Packo's Hot Dog Combo #1 (how's that for name originality)? No matter; what you get, for $8.49, is a famous hot dog with mustard, diced onions and "secret" sauce, a bowl or the chili (which now comes in regular, chicken or vegetarian) and your choice of one side dish. Not a chili lover, Jack substituted a bowl of chicken-and-dumpling soup, which was quite good. For sides, he picked the sauerkraut simmered in tomato sauce, while I insisted on the paprika dumplings with gravy -- for me, nothing else will do.

For the re
cord, there are several varieties of hot dogs, including plain, so don't hesitate to ask for something different if you don't want the works. And if you love chili, you might try the Chili Mac, with the chili spread over dumplings and topped with shredded cheddar and onions. This delicacy comes with either cole slaw or creamy cucumber salad and bread and butter.

Another item of note: Those wonderful pickles. There are several varieties, all of which can be purchased in the gift shop or online. With each meal,
though, you get my favorite -- the delectable Sweet Hot Pickles & Peppers. It's hard to describe the sensation of sweet pickle slices combined with hot, thick-sliced banana peppers on your tongue, but it's just wonderful.

It's rare that either of us has room for dessert after chowing down on all these goodies (plus a couple of beers), but if you do, there are a couple of don't miss items. Our favorite is the warm apple dumpling -- succulent apple slices in pastry flavored with cinnamon and other spices with the must-do option of adding ice cream (for $3.69), although the apple, cherry or "special fruit strudels are a quite acceptable alternative.

Once you're finished, be sure to stop in the gift shop. If you loved those pickles, I guarantee some of your friends will as well, and jars make great gifts. Plenty of other "stuff" awaits your perusal as well, from the requisite tourist T-shirts (I own two) to newer barbecue aprons. In the event you just can't bring yourself to waddle into the shop, though, be comforted by the fact that a few products, most notably the pickles, can be purchased back home in Giant Eagle supermarkets and Patton's IGA in Hubbard. Or, visit Packo's Web site and order online; just be aware that shipping costs are high for heavy, breakable items like pickles.

Finally, if you really want to be in the "with it" crowd, you can follow Tony Packo's (as I do) on Facebook and Twitter.

If you go:

Tony Packo’s
1902 Front St.
Toledo, OH 43605
(419) 691-1953
www.tonypackos.com
Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday Noon to 9 p.m.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

SUNRISE INN

I'm not a native of northeastern Ohio -- I was born in Indiana and grew up on a small farm on the southwest side of the Buckeye State -- but I've lived in this neck of the woods ever since I left home to start college at Kent State University way back in 1959. A few years later, I married a guy from Niles, and that's been my home ever since.

One of the disadvantages of living in rural Ohio way back when (although of course I didn't realize it at the time) was an almost total lack of ethnic food. For the most part, we grew what we ate, all lovingly cooked from scratch by a hard-working
Mom who was proud to call herself a "housewife." To this day, I clearly remember my first taste of what was called "pizza pie" -- an oven-warmed triangle of red sauce topped by too-hot melted cheese that was sold to the kids at the public swimming pool in Union City, Indiana, for the first time when I was in junior high. It was totally new, totally delicious, and my introduction to the wonderful world of Italian food.

Then when I hit the city of Niles, with its large Italian population, I thought I'd died and gone to Heaven. I lost count of the times we went to the long-gone Jerry's In
n or still popular Alberini's Restaurant for what my husband Jack and I still call the best-ever pizza. Spaghetti and meatballs? Speaking as someone who grew up on cans of Chef Boyardee, I couldn't get enough of the "real" thing.

All this brings me to the subject of this blog, Sunrise Inn in Warren, Ohio -- because for years, it's been my absolute favorite place for spaghetti. To
me, the sauce is absolutely wonderful, and the best I've had anywhere; relatively thick and slightly sweet, it has a flavor beyond compare. We've gone there with regularity for many years, and I've never been disappointed.

That's not to say, though, that we haven't tried -- and loved -- other things, not the least of which is the Sunrise Inn pizza. On many occasions, we've stopped in just to sit at the bar for a couple of beers and a couple of slices of bar pizza -- most often the old-fashioned Old World (sometimes known as Brier Hill), topped with a wonderful red sauce, slightly spicy pepperoni and sprinkle cheese. Once in a while I'll try a slice of deep-dish, spinach or veggie pizza -- all delicious -- but in the end the hands-down favorite is the Old World.

We're also quite fond of several other entrees, some Italian, some not; one of my favorites, for instance, is tortellini -- cheese or spinach, your choice, both delicious -- for $8.99. Jack regularly opts for lasagna, which stands at least 4 inches high and covers most of a plate counting the spillover sauce. And Chef Boyardee be darned, the ravioli here is absolutely wonderful. Still another hard-to-go-wrong items are eggplant parmesan and seafood linguine with either red or white sauce -- although lately the latter has become a Friday-only option.

Sunrise Inn is also the go-to place for garlic chicken; that and pizza are popular take-out items. Every time we eat here, we watch quite a number of folks come in to pick up orders they've called in. My preference is the four-piece all dark (Jack prefers the same but all-white) for $7.65; both come with a large Texas potato slice and cole slaw.

Recent years also have brought the addition of roasted prime rib, available for $9.99 on Thursdays and Sundays. It's wonderfully flavored and cooked to perfection -- and at least for me, there's always plenty left for lunch or dinner the next day.

Also more recently is the addition of "Eleven for Eleven" on the menu; as you might expect, there are 11 entrees priced at, well...On a recent visit with friends Jerry and Barb (and a $25 certificate we snagged from Restaurant.com), it was this menu that got our full attention. Consider the following:

Tuna Lorenz, yellowfin tuna suteed with capers, mushrooms, carrots and broccoli in lemon-sherry-butter sauce (for me); Seafood Marinara, Blue Island mussels, black tiger shrimp, tilapia and chopped clams sauteed with garlic in marinara sauce over linguine (Jack); Chicken Monterrey, two breasts with green peppers, artichoke hearts, diced tomatoeas and green onions in garlic butter sauce with Monterrey Jack cheese over rice pilaf (Jerry); and Blackened Pork Chops Au Blu, center-cut chops with blackened seasoning, blue cheese, bacon and caramelized onions over crispy potatoes (Barb).

Needless to say, we sampled each others' entrees, and every one of us said we'd have been quite satisfied with any of the others' choices. The chicken was especially tasty (I love artichoke hearts), and the chops were juicy and tender -- what's not to love about blue cheese?

It goes without saying that we all came back for more; this time, Barb's choice was the "Po Boy" crabcake with remoulade, lettuce, tomato, red onion and cole slaw on a boule for $8.69, while Jerry opted for chicken parmesan, or strips of chicken with onion, peppers, pineapple chunks for $9.39. I stuck with my favorite meat-filled ravioli with toasted garlic bread ($8.99), while Jack, who wasn't quite as hungry, decided on a small order of spaghetti for $7.49 but added mushrooms for an additional 99 cents plus a cup of the delicious tomato bisque.

Everything was absolutely delicious as usual, but Barb was astounded at the size of the crab cake (for the record, it was the biggest one I've ever seen, even on the Atlantic Coast). It tasted even better, although she was able to eat only about half and took the rest home. Noticing that the same crab cake is on the dinner menu, we asked about it -- and our server told us the dinner has not one, but two, of the same huge crab cakes (you'll find it on the Eleven Under Eleven menu).

On still another visit, this time with a coupon for up to $8 off on two dinner entrees from the Entertainment Book, I couldn't resist that "Under Eleven" menu and just had to try the linguine-tuna primavera, with mushrooms, onions, broccoli, carrots and peas in light cream sauce topped with toasted almonds. It was, in three words, to die for. Jack, however, decided on the more classic lasagna, adding a salad for 99 cents.

I feel compelled to add that entrees come with fresh-baked Italian bread; it's hard to resist, but be careful. It's quite dense, and consuming a slice or two can fill you up before your meals arrive. We've learned to pace ourselves, taking the leftover bread home for later.

If you go:

Sunrise Inn
510 E. Market St.
Warren, Ohio 44481
(330) 392-5176

Thursday, June 3, 2010

GASOLINE ALLEY

Wouldn't you like to get away where everybody knows your name? How about a place where everybody knows what you like to drink as well? Both are hallmarks of Gasoline Alley in Niles, where you're a "regular" if you've been there a couple of times. All we have to do is grab a booth, and almost before we're settled in our seats, a smiling server -- who most likely is the bartender as well -- is on the way with a Sam Adams, a Michelob Ultra and one glass (the latter two for me).

Of course, that's a small problem if you've decided on something else that day -- once in a Blue Moon I prefer one of those, and occasionally a Bud Lite Lime sounds appealing. When that's the case, be forewarned that you need to yell out your change in drinking habits early on!

Gasoline Alley basically is a fun neighborhood pub and a popular gathering place for friends; a bar takes up most of one side of the place
, with booths on the other side and a row of small round tables in the center aisle (and yes, it can get a bit crowded and noisy, especially in the evenings). There's nothing on tap here, by the way; for beer, it's bottles only, but there's a full bar. A couple of TV sets are always going, menus are on each table and a big whiteboard on the wall lists daily specials. The decor is decidedly, well, gasoline -- old license plates cover the walls and old-time gasoline company neon signs hang from the ceiling like Polly Gas and Johnson Gasolene. At the back, there are a few additional booths and a couple of full-size, though presumably nonworking, gas pumps.

Neighborhood bar notwithstanding, Gasoline Alley has a reputation for great food -- definitely the primary reason my husband Jack and I stop here at least once a week (well, that and the fact that it's very close to home). The Alley is best known for burgers, chili and wings; the latter two have won awards. Those items also are among our "standards," although we've been known to venture away from those to try one of the daily specials, like a delicious green pepper and egg sandwich on a sub-style bun ($3.75). Another favorite that's offered occasionally is sloppy joes -- they're quite delicious, so if you see them on the specials board, don't hesitate to dive in.

My usual burger is the Hot Rod, a bacon cheeseburger with hot pepper cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo. The full platter, with a side of those wonderful Idora Park-style fries that are best when sprinkled with vinegar, is $6.50. Jack's burger of choice is the Alley Platter, 1/4-lb. burger with grilled onions and melted cheddar cheese (the platter, with fries, also is $6.50). The chili dogs are delicious too -- topped with New Castle dog sauce -- and at just $1.75 we can pig out on two or three. If we're really hungry, we'll add an order of those Idora-style fries, which are topped with crumbled bacon, green onions and melted cheddar cheese -- it's so big we've never been able to finish it.

The clam chowder ($2.75) is quite good here as well, but I'm partial to that award-winning chili. A 12-oz. bowl is $3.35 and so thick and meaty that it makes a meal in and of itself -- absolutely perfect on a cold winter day. I had a big bowl, in fact, on the way home from the movies to see "Sherlock Holmes" back on Dec. 13 (it was about 3:30 on a Wednesday afternoon and the place was almost completely filled -- yes, this is a popular place). Still another favorite of mine is the Cincinnati chili, or spaghetti topped with chili just like I used to love when I was growing up in southwestern Ohio not far from Cincy ($7.75 gets you a huge plate of the stuff plus a large slice of yummy toasted, buttered garlic bread).

Still another of Jack's favorite sandwiches is the plain old BLT -- a very basic sandwich but one they do well here. He always asks for, and gets, the bacon crisp, very little lettuce and lots of mayo. One of my picks that was on the specials-of-the-day board is a bourbon chicken sandwich with fries; the bourbon sauce was especially delicious, so I hope to see that one back on the board soon.

The wings here are truly special; large, plump and juicy with plenty of great-tasting sauce choices. Our favorites are, in rank order, garlic butter, Louisiana garlic butter and teriyaki. Usually, we get two different flavors, 10 of each for $6.25. Buckets of 50 go for $25, and I should note that there's always someone at the counter picking up a take-out order. My guess is that wings are by far the most popular item on the menu, but plenty of other choices -- including a substantial list of appetizers like deep fried veggies and mac-and-cheese bites and tasty sandwiches -- are yours for the asking as well. You won't need to raid your kids' piggy banks to eat here, either; the prices are among the most reasonable you'll find anywhere.

If you're going for the first time, you won't go wrong by ordering chili, wings or burgers -- always on the menu and always delicious. But when you go back, don't hesitate to be a bit more adventurous and try a different kind of sandwich -- say the hot sausage or a couple of those chili dogs with New Castle sauce -- or one of the daily specials. You'll be glad you came!

If you go: Gasoline Alley
500 Vienna Ave.
Niles, Ohio 44446
(330) 652-0555

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Korner Restaurant

On the outside, the Korner Restaurant isn't likely to be called an architectural marvel. But don't be fooled; the number of cars and trucks in the parking lot -- and number of tables filled with obviously satisfied diners inside -- tell the real tale here. In fact, it's hard to beat for good, stick-to-your-ribs food served up in a pleasant, family-friendly atmosphere.

In the interest of full disclosure, this place was recommended by friend and host of "The Valley View," Mike Costarella. But the fact is, we'd eaten there more than once before he spoke up. Not long before the first of our two "official" visits, for instance, we stopped with friends on our way home from sipping (and buying) some wine at the Mastropietro Winery in Berlin Center. Although at that time we weren't thinking about tracking what we had to eat, I do recall that the four of us agreed that whatever it was we ate was delicious.

We paid attention to the details on our first official visit, noting the colorful Fiesta dinnerware, including coffee mugs ready for filling already on our table. Fiesta, for those who might not know, is made by the Homer Laughlin China Co. of Newell, West Virginia, across the Ohio River not far from East Liverpool. The silverware at the restaurant is "packaged" in little paper bags -- a very neat and tidy idea. The red brick building exterior is carried over to some of the interior walls, and the wood trim is painted in complementary turquoise, blue and maroon. Immediately, we felt we were in a "home-town" kind of place; diners were conversing with other diners -- even those who sat at other tables -- and the atmosphere was low-key and comfortable.

In addition to a diner-style service counter, there are a couple of rooms with tables and booths plus a back room that has a long table to accommodate groups; in fact, it was in use at our lunch visit by, we were told, some local government officials. Specials are listed on boards; one that caught my eye on this occasion was a chicken salad sandwich with lettuce and tomato with French fries or soup for $4 and the beef barley and chicken rice soups of the day.

Immediately, I zeroed in on one section of the menu: The "7 Under 7" -- dinners priced at $6.99 each. Still another menu insert lists meals for those who need or want to be nutrition-conscious; called "Delicious and Nutritious," the foods listed include information on protein, carbs, fat and calories. We saw a bevvy of sandwiches and wraps, ranging in price from $2.49 for grilled cheese to $4.99 each for a couple of fancied-up hamburgers. Several varieties of pasta and salads are offered as well, also at good prices.

My husband Jack first considered a tuna salad wrap at $4.99 and the open-face roast beef with potatoes and vegetables from the $6.99 menu, but after much deliberation, he ended up ordering an open-face hot roast beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy for $5.99. My decision was made far more quickly; once I saw the grilled ham and pierogies with a veggie on the $6.99 menu, that was all she wrote. For the record, it was the pierogies, not the ham, that turned the tide; I'll follow those wonderful stuffed goodies anywhere.

Immediately, our server brought a basket of bread and crackers and our drinks -- diet Coke and unsweetened iced tea, respectively, at $1.29 each. Jack's open-face sandwich arrived on a very large oval platter not much later; although it seemed to him there was plenty of gravy to go around, our server asked him if it was enough to suit him (it was). His vegetable of choice was corn, and there was plenty of that as well. The beef, he said, was exceptionally tender and flavorful, and the potatoes tasted "real."

My plate also was large, filled with three large pierogies topped with grilled onions; before bringing it, our server asked if I wanted sour cream, and since I answered in the affirmative, she brought that as well. Also on the plate were three ample-sized triangles of grilled ham, unexpectedly topped with a few mandarin oranges. The ham was wonderfully grilled and had a great flavor. For a side, I ordered the mixed veggies -- broccoli, carrots, cauliflower and zucchini. The entire meal including soft drinks totaled $18.10, and for that amount we left with very full stomachs.

Our son Scott and daughter-in-law Lilla recently moved into a new house in Cuyahoga Falls, inviting us and a few other family members and guests to a very informal housewarming party shortly thereafter. On the way home, we decided to stop at the Korner Restaurant for dinner. Although we weren't very hungry -- we'd been well fed at the party, after all -- we figured we'd get something that would reheat well for lunch the next day.

This time, we were more familiar with the menu, so decisions came more quickly. Jack immediately zeroed in on the bourbon beef tips with caramelized onions, mushrooms and a bourbon glaze ($10.99). For sides, he chose a garden salad with Thousand Island dressing plus macaroni and cheese. Ever the seafood fanatic, I settled on baked Norwegian cod -- a baked filet "lightly seasoned" for $9.99. I, too, picked a garden salad (but with Italian dressing) plus a cup of the chicken-rice soup that was a special that day.

Our salads featured crisp greens plus some tomato, chopped onions, carrots and celery; the chicken-rice soup was on the creamy side with onions, carrots and rice, none of which overwhelmed the tasty broth. As expected, Jack was able to bring home plenty of the delicious beef tips as well as more than half the mac-and-cheese (which I in particular enjoyed devouring once we got back home). For the record, it was made not with the expected elbow macaroni, but rather with small-size rigatoni, and the sauce was creamy and delicious.

The Norwegian cod was a good-size plank that was almost too lightly seasoned to have much flavor, but the lemon and tartar sauce compensated. I always find that once you get more than half an hour from the ocean, you can expect that fish will be cooked far longer than necessary, so I wasn't at all surprised that it happened here as well. That said, it was quite good. Better still, I was able to eat only about half of what was on my plate, and I'm happy to report that the rest ended up chopped and added to the linguine with white clam sauce I made for dinner the following day.

As we were eating, I noticed that a couple of the servers' t-shirts proclaimed, "Small Place, Big Taste" -- apparently the restaurant's motto. On our way out, I noticed some ground and whole-bean coffee sold by the bag (16 oz. ground for $6.95), a house blend "Gourmet European Roast Coffee" with the motto on the bag as well. Coffee-lover that I am, I bought one, and it's quite good. It's an all-purpose down-home morning coffee as opposed to French roast and stronger blends like I buy at Starbucks, but it seemed to me to be a cut above the basic grocery-story Maxwell House variety and well worth buying again next time we head for the Korner -- which will be soon. Hope to see you there!

If you go: Korner Restaurant
9177 Mahoning Ave.
North Jackson, Ohio
(330) 538-9963

Open Wednesday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. ; closed Monday and Tuesday.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge

My love of Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge goes way back -- never mind how many years -- but I was working in downtown Warren at the time I first discovered it. My business colleagues and I loved to go there for lunch when our workloads permitted us a real lunch hour. Once my job moved to Youngstown, my visits necessarily were far less frequent, but now that my husband Jack and I are at least somewhat retired, we've rediscovered the place and fallen in love all over again.

In addition to enjoying a wonderful, leisurely lunch or dinner, though, I mus
t note that Enzo's was the site of an even more joyous occasion: Our daughter's wedding reception more than a dozen years ago. At that time, Enzo's had just opened a banquet room, and she was looking for a place to hold the big event. All the huge well-known banquet halls were booked up a year or more in advance, and besides, her reception, with something like 125 guests, didn't require such a big facility. The minute she learned about Enzo's, she paid them a visit -- and went on to become the first wedding reception to be held there. Needless to say, everything was perfect, not the least of which was the food. To this day, we remember the wonderful time we all had there, and every once in a while one of the guests from all those years ago mentions the great surroundings and food as well.

Our "official" visit was in early April for a late lunch, and once again, we left with full stomachs, smiles on our faces and a pledge to not wait so long to eat here next time around. The decor is quite lovely with a decided Italian flavor -- Enzo's is owned by the Cantalamessa family, after all -- and there's a definite upscale ambience that's felt the minute you enter the lobby. To the right is the banquet facility; to the left is a small bar where you can wait for a table (or just pop in for a glass of wine, mixed drink or a cold beer). Almost straight ahead is the restaurant, which has a couple of dozen booths and a dozen or so tables. We also noticed a small outdoor patio that will be nice in warmer weather -- we'll definitely give it a try this summer!

Given the surroundings, you might expect to find outrageous prices -- but not so. We spent just under $9 apiece for our entrees (not including a couple of beers); we've spent far more than that at many "family casual" restaurants like Appleb
ee's and Ruby Tuesday, all amid the banter of overly friendly servers who seem bent on becoming our best friends, the clatter of dishes and intrusive music and chatter from a half-dozen TV sets pointed at us from every direction.

At Enzo's, there's none of that -- the servers here are very friendly, courteous and helpful (they even bring ice water as soon as you sit down with no need to beg for
it). Although business people clearly eat here often and you'll see lots of suits, sport coats and even an occasional necktie, you won't feel out of place if you wander in, as we did, in jeans. We also learned from our server that the restaurant's "regulars" haven't slacked off a bit despite the economy -- which also tells me something about how good, and reasonably priced, the food is here.

Two things we almost always get here -- wedding soup and linguine with red clam sauce -- we've always said are as good as you'll find anywhere. The wedding soup (I'm the one who loves it) is filled with all the usual greens, shredded chicken and those teeny meatballs, all swimming in an
absolutely delicious broth. As for the linguine, it's Jack who claims that as his all-time favorite (I don't like red sauce on seafood). He love it so much, though, that he orders it at just about every Italian restaurant we've ever been to. So when he says this is the best, I'm inclined to believe him.

For him, then, the choice of entree was a no-brainer, especially since t
he cost is a reasonable $8.95 on the lunch menu. He chose the daily special soup of vegetable beef, which he pronounced delicious as he ate that and a slice of fresh Italian bread from the basket our server delivered with our soup.

The choice of entree for me, however, was a bit more difficult. I've always loved Chicken Francaise, for instance, and it's wonderful here, sauteed with lemon, wine and butter and also $8.95. Then there's the Fettuccini Prima Vera --
homemade noodles tossed with fresh vegetables and Alfredo sauce at $8.95. Most lunch entrees, I should add, come with either a tossed salad or a cup of soup (sandwiches generally include fries or onion rings). If you're there for dinner, expect to add three or four bucks to the lunch cost, but the portions are substantially larger and non-pasta entrees include either tossed salad or soup and a choice of potatoes, pasta, rice or vegetables. We've never had dinner here without bringing home at least half to enjoy another day.

Needless to say, there are plenty of salads and sandwiches here as well; when was the last time you had a real pizzaburger -- a choice of hamburger, sausage or a meatball served between two slices of pizza? The lunch version costs $5.95, by the way, and it's a real treat.

For this lunch, I finally settled on a new-to-me entree: Angel Hair Giardiniera, or angel hair spaghetti tossed in olive oil with snow peas, sundried tomatoes, red, yellow and green bell peppers, onions, mushrooms and romano cheese ($8.95). It sounded absolutely marvelous, and I was absolutely right. Light but spilling over with flavor, especially in the sauce, it's surpassed the Fettuccini Prima Vera as my favorite pasta dish. Although I struggled to make room, it was so delicious that I finished the entire bowl.

I digress a bit, but I must stop to share a little tip. Those who know me know I love anything hot and spicy -- I'll know I'm old when I can no longer wolf down a bowl of hot peppers in oil without suffering for days afterward. But in all my years of enjoying the spices of life, never once did I ever consider adding hot pepper flakes to pasta cooked in a white sauce. That was until I found a special linguine with white clam sauce at another local Italian restaurant -- the "secret" ingredient is (you guessed it), red pepper flakes. They add just the right amount of zing without changing the flavor of the dish.

So trust me: Although Enzo's Angel Hair Giardiniera is as close to perfect as you can get all on its own, try adding a couple of shakes of those pepper flakes. Bellissimo!

If you go: Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge
2918 Elm Road N.E.
Warren, Ohio
(330) 372-331­4
http://www.enzosofwarren.com

Open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday noon to 9 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.

Friday, April 16, 2010

CONGRATULATIONS, ART!

Big congratulations to Art Byrd for the publication of his 50th "A Byrd's Eye View" newsletter! As he notes in the latest edition, he started the newsletter because, "I got tired of people telling me that there is nothing to do in the Youngstown area. With each edition, we prove them wrong."

That's much the same reason I started this Mahoning Valley Eats & Treats blog -- there's no shortage of great places to eat right here in the Mahoning and Shenango valleys. Keep up the good work, Art, and here's a special thanks for "plugging" my blog in your terrific newsletter! If you'd like to read excerpts from the newsletters, visit Art's blog!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Up A Creek Tavern

Spring is here -- finally -- bringing with it the opening of the outdoor patio at Up A Creek Tavern and a great place to soak up rays, chow down on a juicy burger and quaff a beer or two. Yes, it's a great neighborhood pub! But did you know you can have great private parties here? Or that the pasta at this Howland Township eatery is good enough to make Italian restaurant chefs cry? Or that on Saturdays, the wood-fired roasted Texas brisket, lamb and prime rib are melt-in-your-mouth wonderful?

My husband Jack and I consider ourselves regulars here -- in fact, when the weather's warm and we're not on the road, we're likely to be here for a late lunch a couple of days a week at least.

One of the best things going is that there's almost always something special -- meaning great food and drink at a special price. There are $1 drafts here every day, but there's also Happy Hour (3 p.m. to closing), drinks of the month (for April, it's Riesling from one of our favorite Ohio wineries, Chalet Debonn
e) and some kind of food deal. The April wing flavors are Mango Rum and Citrus Herb; the Burger of the Month is the Tavern Burger at $6.99, which is a delicious half-pound Black Angus burger topped with sauteed sweet peppers and onions, a piece of fried bologna, Swiss cheese, lettuce and tomato on a grilled kaiser roll. If you like, add a fried egg for another buck (oh yes, it comes with fries).

Then there are daily specials, which we often try because the price is right and we're introduced to what's likely to become a new favorite -- like the recent Tuscany sausage sandwich for $5.99 -- which is one of the thickest, juiciest and spiciest hot I've ever had, topped with and red bell peppers and melted cheese. Jack had one of his all-time favorites, the Reuben sandwich (he swears the corned beef is better here than anywhere else), and I added a cup of chicken and wild
rice soup. The soup was filled with plenty of tender rice, chicken chunks, celery and carrots -- oh yeah, I'd order both the sandwich and soup again, no question!

I've already mentioned that we eat on the outdoor patio when possible; there are several booths and tables in the main room where the bar is when the w
eather isn't so good. There's a porch with a fireplace and screens on the windows that is used year-round as well. Plenty of flat-screen TVs assure you won't miss a big game for those who are interested in that stuff. The tables have boxes filled with condiments and a rack of paper towels in the old Hooters tradition -- definitely a low-key kind of place!

Surprisingly, the pastas here are among our favorites; they range in price from $7.99 to $9.99, and you can add chicken, shrimp and/or sausage to any dish for a couple of dollars extra. My special favorite is the Pasta Diavlo ($7.99), a very spicy concoction of pasta with garlic, herbs, olive oil, fresh plum tomatoes, hot peppers and basil in red sauce.

Speaking of hot peppers, at one of our visits we overheard one of the chefs talking about hot peppers in oil in a jar that were being sold at the restaurant and as far away as Arizona and Florida. Needless to say, we asked about them and ended up buying a jar for $7.99. They're called Papa Canzonetta's Medium Hot Peppers Italian Style, which means, I guess, that they're packed with a red sauce). They're not eye-watering hot -- even Jack had a taste without passing out -- but they sure are delicious! Next time you're at the tavern, ask about getting a jar.

At another visit, Jack ordered linguine with red clam sauce (white sauce is on the menu as well) for $9.99. When I noticed the menu statement, "You've gotta try this one!" on the daily special crabmeat in tequila lime cream sauce pasta (11.99), I just had to try it. The sauce is pink -- so when it was set down in front of me, I thought oh no -- red sauce and seafood are not a good combination in my book. One bite, though, and that concern went right out the window. There was plenty of sauce, and the whole thing was topped with pieces of crabmeat (not the fake kind). It's substantial enough that I could eat only about half, and the half I brought home was enough to make a meal for the two of us. In short, it was to die for -- so good that I suggested to the server that it be placed on the permanent menu.

For the record, like other foods here, pastas, can be yours at a special price if you watch what day you go; currently, for instance, on Wednesdays you can buy one, get one free -- a can't-be-beat deal.

Still another favorite I found on the "winter" menu -- a four-piece fried chicken dinner that comes either spicy hot or "regular" Southern spiced for $7.49. I tried it on a day it was on special, which offered a $2 discount, and it was wonderful (I got the regular version because the spicy one had a sauce on it and I don't like chicken that drips or is excessively messy). The chicken came with cheddar mashed potatoes and cole slaw (I could have substituted fries or onion straws but didn't). Meanwhile, Jack tried a parmesan pepper shrimp wrap accompanied by onion straws -- also delicious -- and a cup of the tavern's excellent French onion soup. and washed it all down with a couple of those $1 drafts (Coors Light is our choice).

When the chicken first arrived, though, I was afraid it might be too crispy for my taste (more to the point, for my aging teeth to handle without cracking off), but I was pleasantly surprised. The pieces were quite large and included a leg, a wing, a thigh and a breast. In the end, we took home two pieces of the chicken and half of Jack's wrap -- the portions are quite substantial here, by the way, and we leave with boxes in hand virtually every time we visit.

The sandwiches and wings here are outstanding too; our favorite wing flavors are Butter Garlic and Parmesan & Black Pepper. The regular price is six wings for $4.49 (eight boneless for $5.29), but they're often on special as well. In addition to Jack's favorite Reuben, I love the fried bologna sandwich, packed full of thick-sliced balogna topped with grilled onions and provolone for $4.99. To that, I add hot peppers for another $1. Talk about comfort food!

Finally, I'll mention a couple of other great deals: If it's your birthday, you eat here free (up to $12). And if you want to party down with a relatively small crowd, you can reserve that screened-in porch for $50, which is then applied to the cost of the food assuming you show up. Not long ago, we booked the place on a Sunday afternoon to entertain about 30 friends and family members who came to meet our son Scott's wife Lilla, who came here from South Africa (she has dual citizenship there and in Great Britain). We could have ordered individual meals or chosen a buffet with as many items as we wanted. Since this was a mid-afternoon bash, we went with the latter, picking two kinds of pizza (with pepperoni and veggie), two kinds of wings (honey barbecue and butter garlic) and a large antipasto tray -- choose a size of each that would feed from 30 to 35. Everyone had plenty (and loved the butter garlic wings in particular), and we still had plenty left to share take-home boxes with several of our guests.

If you go:

Up a Creek Tavern
4793 E. Market St.
Warren, OH 44484
(330) 856-5135
http://upacreektavern.com

Open daily from 11:30 a.m. top 2:30 a.m.