HARTVILLE KITCHEN

Readers who follow this blog know by now that my early years -- from birth till I left for Kent State University in 1959 -- were spent on a small farm in southwestern Ohio. With a stay-at-home, but hard-working, mother who loved to cook mostly from scratch, the eating was delicious. And, the craving for "down-home" cooking never went away, even as the times changed and eating out became almost more common than spending time whipping up goodies in my own kitchen.

Once in a while, though, I'm able to have it both ways: Eat out and eat good ol' country fare. One of my favorite places to do that is the Hartville Kitchen in Hartville, Ohio -- ironically, not far from the city of Kent, where I spent the first two years of my college life (the rest of the years came after our kids were in school).

The restaurant started in 1966 as a small restaurant, but it's since grown to become a complex of businesses that include a gift shop, home decor gallery, Hartville MarketPlace and Flea Market, a hardware shop and a tool shop (in other words, if you visit, plan to stay awhile). Over all those years, though, the restaurant has remained family owned, and the original Mennonite heritage also remains a constant, as evidenced by the wonderful food.

As you might expect, the menu is quite extensive -- and the waiting lines to get in the dining room can be quite long as well. The restaurant is good-sized, though, so the line usually moves rather quickly; still, I recommend timing your visit at other than peak mealtime hours.

My husband Jack and friends Jerry and Barb did exactly that not long ago, arriving fashionably late for lunch (or early for dinner, take your pick). Even then, there were quite a few ahead of us -- and a tour bus arrived shortly after that. This complex is a popular destination, especially for senior citizens, so it's not unusual to see a bus or two in the parking lot.

In fact, we, too, decided to do a little poking around in the gift shop and looking at all the interesting and unique wall hangings (many of which are for sale) before we got in line. In the process, I found a couple of items I thought would be terrific gifts, so I filed these away to pick up after we ate. If you're interested in gifts as well, be sure to visit the upper level, which has many other possibilities including larger items such as framed paintings and furniture -- all in keeping with the country theme, of course.

Although it's great to buy goodies like whole pies, homemade noodles and breads to take back home, the stick-to-your-ribs food served in the restaurant arguably is the big draw here. Since there were four of us, we decided to make the most of our visit by trying four different things. Three of us opted for sandwiches but added tossed salads, which arrived first -- nicely chopped greens, which I love. In addition, equally finely chopped carrots, tomato and celery are in there, and the dressings -- raspberry sweet 'n' sour and blue cheese were our choices -- were outstanding.

Our friend Jerry also wanted to try some soup, choosing broccoli-cheese (vegetable beef and chicken noodle also are on the everyday menu), getting a cup for $2.35. It was very creamy and -- surprise -- includes noodles, making for a very satisfying meal starter.

Jack's pick was from the Hot Sandwiches list, the roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy for $7.80. I almost went for the creamed chicken with mixed vegetables over biscuits and mashed potatoes, also $7.80; I've had it before and it's quite good. I should mention that these two, plus a roast pork with mashed potatoes and gravy, are available in half-order portions for $6.80. For that matter, all dinners are available a la carte, such as one piece of chicken, a side dish, etc.

Now for the rest of us: I tend to judge down-home cookin' by the quality of the fried chicken, so it was a no-brainer for me. I went big with three pieces of dark, my favorite -- a thigh, wing and drumstick for $10.50. White or wheat rolls come with all entrees, and I could choose three sides. One, of course, was a tossed salad; for the others, I picked mashed potatoes and gravy and cottage cheese. Other notable choices include macaroni and cheese, green beans, cole slaw, applesauce, Jell-O and sweet potato casserole.

The mashed potatoes are very real, and very good, and the fried chicken has a tasty breading that won't break your teeth. Jack's open-face roast beef sandwich was as delicious as he'd remembered from the last time we were here. Both Barb and Jerry looked at the sandwich list, choosing tuna salad ($5.90) and chicken salad ($4.50), respectively. Both were quite satisfied, especially when the salads and soup were factored in.

One of the don't-miss specialties here, though, are the homemade pies -- close to 20 varieties, plus no-sugar-added versions of cherry and apple. Keep in mind all four of us were stuffed to almost overflowing; that three of us ordered pie on top of all that is a testament to how good it is.

All of us did, that is, except Jack; he broke tradition by ordering a warm, gooey hot fudge brownie sundae ($3.49), making us almost sorry we'd picked the pie. For chocolate-lovers, though, this one is a must-try.

Those of us who did go with pie, which is $2.89 per generous slice, went with ice cream added, bumping the cost to $3.89. Not long after we placed our orders with our friendly server, she delivered a piece of coconut cream, black raspberry and vanilla peanut butter.

The crusts buttery and rather dense, but with a good flavor and consistency. The coconut flavor was quite evident but not overwhelming in my cream pie, and Jerry's raspberry filling wasn't overly sweet (yes, we all sampled each other's). Barb's vanilla peanut butter, though, was nothing like we'd expected, with the flavors blended together in a single cream filling. Instead, vanilla and peanut butter creams were layered, and the whole thing was topped with a soft meringue -- nothing short of totally decadent!

Needless to say, we stopped at the bakery to get a couple of whole pies to go -- the most expensive on the list, black raspberry (baked or cream) is $9.99, but most are a reasonable $8.50. And yes, I popped back into the gift shop to buy the treasures I'd found earlier (but until I pass them on to the recipients, exactly what I bought will remain my secret)!

If you go:
Hartville Kitchen
1015 Edison St.
Hartville, Ohio 44632
(330) 877-9353
www.hartvillekitchen.com

Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Closed Wednesday and Sunday.