Thursday, May 13, 2010

Korner Restaurant

On the outside, the Korner Restaurant isn't likely to be called an architectural marvel. But don't be fooled; the number of cars and trucks in the parking lot -- and number of tables filled with obviously satisfied diners inside -- tell the real tale here. In fact, it's hard to beat for good, stick-to-your-ribs food served up in a pleasant, family-friendly atmosphere.

In the interest of full disclosure, this place was recommended by friend and host of "The Valley View," Mike Costarella. But the fact is, we'd eaten there more than once before he spoke up. Not long before the first of our two "official" visits, for instance, we stopped with friends on our way home from sipping (and buying) some wine at the Mastropietro Winery in Berlin Center. Although at that time we weren't thinking about tracking what we had to eat, I do recall that the four of us agreed that whatever it was we ate was delicious.

We paid attention to the details on our first official visit, noting the colorful Fiesta dinnerware, including coffee mugs ready for filling already on our table. Fiesta, for those who might not know, is made by the Homer Laughlin China Co. of Newell, West Virginia, across the Ohio River not far from East Liverpool. The silverware at the restaurant is "packaged" in little paper bags -- a very neat and tidy idea. The red brick building exterior is carried over to some of the interior walls, and the wood trim is painted in complementary turquoise, blue and maroon. Immediately, we felt we were in a "home-town" kind of place; diners were conversing with other diners -- even those who sat at other tables -- and the atmosphere was low-key and comfortable.

In addition to a diner-style service counter, there are a couple of rooms with tables and booths plus a back room that has a long table to accommodate groups; in fact, it was in use at our lunch visit by, we were told, some local government officials. Specials are listed on boards; one that caught my eye on this occasion was a chicken salad sandwich with lettuce and tomato with French fries or soup for $4 and the beef barley and chicken rice soups of the day.

Immediately, I zeroed in on one section of the menu: The "7 Under 7" -- dinners priced at $6.99 each. Still another menu insert lists meals for those who need or want to be nutrition-conscious; called "Delicious and Nutritious," the foods listed include information on protein, carbs, fat and calories. We saw a bevvy of sandwiches and wraps, ranging in price from $2.49 for grilled cheese to $4.99 each for a couple of fancied-up hamburgers. Several varieties of pasta and salads are offered as well, also at good prices.

My husband Jack first considered a tuna salad wrap at $4.99 and the open-face roast beef with potatoes and vegetables from the $6.99 menu, but after much deliberation, he ended up ordering an open-face hot roast beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy for $5.99. My decision was made far more quickly; once I saw the grilled ham and pierogies with a veggie on the $6.99 menu, that was all she wrote. For the record, it was the pierogies, not the ham, that turned the tide; I'll follow those wonderful stuffed goodies anywhere.

Immediately, our server brought a basket of bread and crackers and our drinks -- diet Coke and unsweetened iced tea, respectively, at $1.29 each. Jack's open-face sandwich arrived on a very large oval platter not much later; although it seemed to him there was plenty of gravy to go around, our server asked him if it was enough to suit him (it was). His vegetable of choice was corn, and there was plenty of that as well. The beef, he said, was exceptionally tender and flavorful, and the potatoes tasted "real."

My plate also was large, filled with three large pierogies topped with grilled onions; before bringing it, our server asked if I wanted sour cream, and since I answered in the affirmative, she brought that as well. Also on the plate were three ample-sized triangles of grilled ham, unexpectedly topped with a few mandarin oranges. The ham was wonderfully grilled and had a great flavor. For a side, I ordered the mixed veggies -- broccoli, carrots, cauliflower and zucchini. The entire meal including soft drinks totaled $18.10, and for that amount we left with very full stomachs.

Our son Scott and daughter-in-law Lilla recently moved into a new house in Cuyahoga Falls, inviting us and a few other family members and guests to a very informal housewarming party shortly thereafter. On the way home, we decided to stop at the Korner Restaurant for dinner. Although we weren't very hungry -- we'd been well fed at the party, after all -- we figured we'd get something that would reheat well for lunch the next day.

This time, we were more familiar with the menu, so decisions came more quickly. Jack immediately zeroed in on the bourbon beef tips with caramelized onions, mushrooms and a bourbon glaze ($10.99). For sides, he chose a garden salad with Thousand Island dressing plus macaroni and cheese. Ever the seafood fanatic, I settled on baked Norwegian cod -- a baked filet "lightly seasoned" for $9.99. I, too, picked a garden salad (but with Italian dressing) plus a cup of the chicken-rice soup that was a special that day.

Our salads featured crisp greens plus some tomato, chopped onions, carrots and celery; the chicken-rice soup was on the creamy side with onions, carrots and rice, none of which overwhelmed the tasty broth. As expected, Jack was able to bring home plenty of the delicious beef tips as well as more than half the mac-and-cheese (which I in particular enjoyed devouring once we got back home). For the record, it was made not with the expected elbow macaroni, but rather with small-size rigatoni, and the sauce was creamy and delicious.

The Norwegian cod was a good-size plank that was almost too lightly seasoned to have much flavor, but the lemon and tartar sauce compensated. I always find that once you get more than half an hour from the ocean, you can expect that fish will be cooked far longer than necessary, so I wasn't at all surprised that it happened here as well. That said, it was quite good. Better still, I was able to eat only about half of what was on my plate, and I'm happy to report that the rest ended up chopped and added to the linguine with white clam sauce I made for dinner the following day.

As we were eating, I noticed that a couple of the servers' t-shirts proclaimed, "Small Place, Big Taste" -- apparently the restaurant's motto. On our way out, I noticed some ground and whole-bean coffee sold by the bag (16 oz. ground for $6.95), a house blend "Gourmet European Roast Coffee" with the motto on the bag as well. Coffee-lover that I am, I bought one, and it's quite good. It's an all-purpose down-home morning coffee as opposed to French roast and stronger blends like I buy at Starbucks, but it seemed to me to be a cut above the basic grocery-story Maxwell House variety and well worth buying again next time we head for the Korner -- which will be soon. Hope to see you there!

If you go: Korner Restaurant
9177 Mahoning Ave.
North Jackson, Ohio
(330) 538-9963

Open Wednesday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. ; closed Monday and Tuesday.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge

My love of Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge goes way back -- never mind how many years -- but I was working in downtown Warren at the time I first discovered it. My business colleagues and I loved to go there for lunch when our workloads permitted us a real lunch hour. Once my job moved to Youngstown, my visits necessarily were far less frequent, but now that my husband Jack and I are at least somewhat retired, we've rediscovered the place and fallen in love all over again.

In addition to enjoying a wonderful, leisurely lunch or dinner, though, I mus
t note that Enzo's was the site of an even more joyous occasion: Our daughter's wedding reception more than a dozen years ago. At that time, Enzo's had just opened a banquet room, and she was looking for a place to hold the big event. All the huge well-known banquet halls were booked up a year or more in advance, and besides, her reception, with something like 125 guests, didn't require such a big facility. The minute she learned about Enzo's, she paid them a visit -- and went on to become the first wedding reception to be held there. Needless to say, everything was perfect, not the least of which was the food. To this day, we remember the wonderful time we all had there, and every once in a while one of the guests from all those years ago mentions the great surroundings and food as well.

Our "official" visit was in early April for a late lunch, and once again, we left with full stomachs, smiles on our faces and a pledge to not wait so long to eat here next time around. The decor is quite lovely with a decided Italian flavor -- Enzo's is owned by the Cantalamessa family, after all -- and there's a definite upscale ambience that's felt the minute you enter the lobby. To the right is the banquet facility; to the left is a small bar where you can wait for a table (or just pop in for a glass of wine, mixed drink or a cold beer). Almost straight ahead is the restaurant, which has a couple of dozen booths and a dozen or so tables. We also noticed a small outdoor patio that will be nice in warmer weather -- we'll definitely give it a try this summer!

Given the surroundings, you might expect to find outrageous prices -- but not so. We spent just under $9 apiece for our entrees (not including a couple of beers); we've spent far more than that at many "family casual" restaurants like Appleb
ee's and Ruby Tuesday, all amid the banter of overly friendly servers who seem bent on becoming our best friends, the clatter of dishes and intrusive music and chatter from a half-dozen TV sets pointed at us from every direction.

At Enzo's, there's none of that -- the servers here are very friendly, courteous and helpful (they even bring ice water as soon as you sit down with no need to beg for
it). Although business people clearly eat here often and you'll see lots of suits, sport coats and even an occasional necktie, you won't feel out of place if you wander in, as we did, in jeans. We also learned from our server that the restaurant's "regulars" haven't slacked off a bit despite the economy -- which also tells me something about how good, and reasonably priced, the food is here.

Two things we almost always get here -- wedding soup and linguine with red clam sauce -- we've always said are as good as you'll find anywhere. The wedding soup (I'm the one who loves it) is filled with all the usual greens, shredded chicken and those teeny meatballs, all swimming in an
absolutely delicious broth. As for the linguine, it's Jack who claims that as his all-time favorite (I don't like red sauce on seafood). He love it so much, though, that he orders it at just about every Italian restaurant we've ever been to. So when he says this is the best, I'm inclined to believe him.

For him, then, the choice of entree was a no-brainer, especially since t
he cost is a reasonable $8.95 on the lunch menu. He chose the daily special soup of vegetable beef, which he pronounced delicious as he ate that and a slice of fresh Italian bread from the basket our server delivered with our soup.

The choice of entree for me, however, was a bit more difficult. I've always loved Chicken Francaise, for instance, and it's wonderful here, sauteed with lemon, wine and butter and also $8.95. Then there's the Fettuccini Prima Vera --
homemade noodles tossed with fresh vegetables and Alfredo sauce at $8.95. Most lunch entrees, I should add, come with either a tossed salad or a cup of soup (sandwiches generally include fries or onion rings). If you're there for dinner, expect to add three or four bucks to the lunch cost, but the portions are substantially larger and non-pasta entrees include either tossed salad or soup and a choice of potatoes, pasta, rice or vegetables. We've never had dinner here without bringing home at least half to enjoy another day.

Needless to say, there are plenty of salads and sandwiches here as well; when was the last time you had a real pizzaburger -- a choice of hamburger, sausage or a meatball served between two slices of pizza? The lunch version costs $5.95, by the way, and it's a real treat.

For this lunch, I finally settled on a new-to-me entree: Angel Hair Giardiniera, or angel hair spaghetti tossed in olive oil with snow peas, sundried tomatoes, red, yellow and green bell peppers, onions, mushrooms and romano cheese ($8.95). It sounded absolutely marvelous, and I was absolutely right. Light but spilling over with flavor, especially in the sauce, it's surpassed the Fettuccini Prima Vera as my favorite pasta dish. Although I struggled to make room, it was so delicious that I finished the entire bowl.

I digress a bit, but I must stop to share a little tip. Those who know me know I love anything hot and spicy -- I'll know I'm old when I can no longer wolf down a bowl of hot peppers in oil without suffering for days afterward. But in all my years of enjoying the spices of life, never once did I ever consider adding hot pepper flakes to pasta cooked in a white sauce. That was until I found a special linguine with white clam sauce at another local Italian restaurant -- the "secret" ingredient is (you guessed it), red pepper flakes. They add just the right amount of zing without changing the flavor of the dish.

So trust me: Although Enzo's Angel Hair Giardiniera is as close to perfect as you can get all on its own, try adding a couple of shakes of those pepper flakes. Bellissimo!

If you go: Enzo's Restaurant & Lounge
2918 Elm Road N.E.
Warren, Ohio
(330) 372-331­4
http://www.enzosofwarren.com

Open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday noon to 9 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.

Friday, April 16, 2010

CONGRATULATIONS, ART!

Big congratulations to Art Byrd for the publication of his 50th "A Byrd's Eye View" newsletter! As he notes in the latest edition, he started the newsletter because, "I got tired of people telling me that there is nothing to do in the Youngstown area. With each edition, we prove them wrong."

That's much the same reason I started this Mahoning Valley Eats & Treats blog -- there's no shortage of great places to eat right here in the Mahoning and Shenango valleys. Keep up the good work, Art, and here's a special thanks for "plugging" my blog in your terrific newsletter! If you'd like to read excerpts from the newsletters, visit Art's blog!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Up A Creek Tavern

Spring is here -- finally -- bringing with it the opening of the outdoor patio at Up A Creek Tavern and a great place to soak up rays, chow down on a juicy burger and quaff a beer or two. Yes, it's a great neighborhood pub! But did you know you can have great private parties here? Or that the pasta at this Howland Township eatery is good enough to make Italian restaurant chefs cry? Or that on Saturdays, the wood-fired roasted Texas brisket, lamb and prime rib are melt-in-your-mouth wonderful?

My husband Jack and I consider ourselves regulars here -- in fact, when the weather's warm and we're not on the road, we're likely to be here for a late lunch a couple of days a week at least.

One of the best things going is that there's almost always something special -- meaning great food and drink at a special price. There are $1 drafts here every day, but there's also Happy Hour (3 p.m. to closing), drinks of the month (for April, it's Riesling from one of our favorite Ohio wineries, Chalet Debonn
e) and some kind of food deal. The April wing flavors are Mango Rum and Citrus Herb; the Burger of the Month is the Tavern Burger at $6.99, which is a delicious half-pound Black Angus burger topped with sauteed sweet peppers and onions, a piece of fried bologna, Swiss cheese, lettuce and tomato on a grilled kaiser roll. If you like, add a fried egg for another buck (oh yes, it comes with fries).

Then there are daily specials, which we often try because the price is right and we're introduced to what's likely to become a new favorite -- like the recent Tuscany sausage sandwich for $5.99 -- which is one of the thickest, juiciest and spiciest hot I've ever had, topped with and red bell peppers and melted cheese. Jack had one of his all-time favorites, the Reuben sandwich (he swears the corned beef is better here than anywhere else), and I added a cup of chicken and wild
rice soup. The soup was filled with plenty of tender rice, chicken chunks, celery and carrots -- oh yeah, I'd order both the sandwich and soup again, no question!

I've already mentioned that we eat on the outdoor patio when possible; there are several booths and tables in the main room where the bar is when the w
eather isn't so good. There's a porch with a fireplace and screens on the windows that is used year-round as well. Plenty of flat-screen TVs assure you won't miss a big game for those who are interested in that stuff. The tables have boxes filled with condiments and a rack of paper towels in the old Hooters tradition -- definitely a low-key kind of place!

Surprisingly, the pastas here are among our favorites; they range in price from $7.99 to $9.99, and you can add chicken, shrimp and/or sausage to any dish for a couple of dollars extra. My special favorite is the Pasta Diavlo ($7.99), a very spicy concoction of pasta with garlic, herbs, olive oil, fresh plum tomatoes, hot peppers and basil in red sauce.

Speaking of hot peppers, at one of our visits we overheard one of the chefs talking about hot peppers in oil in a jar that were being sold at the restaurant and as far away as Arizona and Florida. Needless to say, we asked about them and ended up buying a jar for $7.99. They're called Papa Canzonetta's Medium Hot Peppers Italian Style, which means, I guess, that they're packed with a red sauce). They're not eye-watering hot -- even Jack had a taste without passing out -- but they sure are delicious! Next time you're at the tavern, ask about getting a jar.

At another visit, Jack ordered linguine with red clam sauce (white sauce is on the menu as well) for $9.99. When I noticed the menu statement, "You've gotta try this one!" on the daily special crabmeat in tequila lime cream sauce pasta (11.99), I just had to try it. The sauce is pink -- so when it was set down in front of me, I thought oh no -- red sauce and seafood are not a good combination in my book. One bite, though, and that concern went right out the window. There was plenty of sauce, and the whole thing was topped with pieces of crabmeat (not the fake kind). It's substantial enough that I could eat only about half, and the half I brought home was enough to make a meal for the two of us. In short, it was to die for -- so good that I suggested to the server that it be placed on the permanent menu.

For the record, like other foods here, pastas, can be yours at a special price if you watch what day you go; currently, for instance, on Wednesdays you can buy one, get one free -- a can't-be-beat deal.

Still another favorite I found on the "winter" menu -- a four-piece fried chicken dinner that comes either spicy hot or "regular" Southern spiced for $7.49. I tried it on a day it was on special, which offered a $2 discount, and it was wonderful (I got the regular version because the spicy one had a sauce on it and I don't like chicken that drips or is excessively messy). The chicken came with cheddar mashed potatoes and cole slaw (I could have substituted fries or onion straws but didn't). Meanwhile, Jack tried a parmesan pepper shrimp wrap accompanied by onion straws -- also delicious -- and a cup of the tavern's excellent French onion soup. and washed it all down with a couple of those $1 drafts (Coors Light is our choice).

When the chicken first arrived, though, I was afraid it might be too crispy for my taste (more to the point, for my aging teeth to handle without cracking off), but I was pleasantly surprised. The pieces were quite large and included a leg, a wing, a thigh and a breast. In the end, we took home two pieces of the chicken and half of Jack's wrap -- the portions are quite substantial here, by the way, and we leave with boxes in hand virtually every time we visit.

The sandwiches and wings here are outstanding too; our favorite wing flavors are Butter Garlic and Parmesan & Black Pepper. The regular price is six wings for $4.49 (eight boneless for $5.29), but they're often on special as well. In addition to Jack's favorite Reuben, I love the fried bologna sandwich, packed full of thick-sliced balogna topped with grilled onions and provolone for $4.99. To that, I add hot peppers for another $1. Talk about comfort food!

Finally, I'll mention a couple of other great deals: If it's your birthday, you eat here free (up to $12). And if you want to party down with a relatively small crowd, you can reserve that screened-in porch for $50, which is then applied to the cost of the food assuming you show up. Not long ago, we booked the place on a Sunday afternoon to entertain about 30 friends and family members who came to meet our son Scott's wife Lilla, who came here from South Africa (she has dual citizenship there and in Great Britain). We could have ordered individual meals or chosen a buffet with as many items as we wanted. Since this was a mid-afternoon bash, we went with the latter, picking two kinds of pizza (with pepperoni and veggie), two kinds of wings (honey barbecue and butter garlic) and a large antipasto tray -- choose a size of each that would feed from 30 to 35. Everyone had plenty (and loved the butter garlic wings in particular), and we still had plenty left to share take-home boxes with several of our guests.

If you go:

Up a Creek Tavern
4793 E. Market St.
Warren, OH 44484
(330) 856-5135
http://upacreektavern.com

Open daily from 11:30 a.m. top 2:30 a.m.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

O'Charley's is A-O'K


Count my husband Jack and I among those who suffered hunger withdrawal pains back when the Chi-Chi's restaurants bit the dust. Often, we'd pop in the Niles location near Eastwood Mall for a margarita or pitcher of sangria; almost as often, we'd end up in the restaurant, where the seafood enchiladas were to die for. Alas, amigos, it was not to be forever.

Sometime thereafter, we learned that a new restaurant called O'Charley's would be opening at that location. Owned and operated by Covelli Enterprises of Warren -- one of a 50-store franchise agreement signed in 2005 between Covelli and O'Charley's Inc. of Nashville, Tenn. -- it would join the local casual dining family restaurant category. O'Phoo, we said -- not that we don't like these places, but do we really need another of the Applebee's, Chili's and Ruby Tuesday eat-alikes? No, we said to each other, it was doubtful we'd ever be regular customers.

And by golly, we had to eat our words. From t
he very first visit, we felt right at home here. For openers, the atmosphere is far more pleasant than those other casual dining places. I love the dark, rich wood, old photos from the Niles area on the walls and booths that are arranged for optimal privacy. Greeters and servers are friendly and pleasant -- not the overly exuberant, excessively perky types who act as though they're your best friend the second you walk in the door. Another plus: A lack of the usual restaurant noise. There's no loud music to drown out conversation, no banging and clattering of dishes, no servers shouting out orders. In short, it's a comfortable place to enjoy a great meal in relative peace and quiet.

And then, of course, there's the most important part: The wonderful food.

Early on, we learned that salads here are not to be missed. At one lunch adventure
, we made a halfhearted attempt at eating healthy, ordering soup and salads. Our server's suggestion swayed both of us toward the Chicken Harvest soup, which she described as "like chicken potpie in a bowl" (it's a menu regular). It was both one of the thickest and most delicious soups I've ever had -- I swear I could have turned the cup upside down without spilling any of those tasty noodles, vegetable bits and chicken -- and at $2.99 a cup, it was hearty enough to make a meal all by itself.

The salads aren't inexpensive -- the Pecan Chicken Tender (my choice) was $9.49 and the Cajun Chicken Jack picked was
$8.99 -- but they were so large there was plenty left over to take home. Mine was Romaine lettuce topped with pecan-encrusted chicken "O'tenders" (what else?) plus mandarin oranges, crumbled bleu cheese, dried cranberries and honey roasted pecans. Add a tasty balsamic vinaigrette dressing -- all are served on the side here, by the way -- and I was in salad Heaven. Our conversation slowed to a crawl as I dived into my salad and Jack discovered the spicy blackened chicken, shredded cheeses and tomatoes on fresh greens, all spiced up with O'Charley's signature ranch dressing. Oh yes, the chicken on both salads was cut into manageable chunks and quite tasty as well.

These days, many restaurants are offering "twofer" deals, and O'Charley's is no exception. Not long ago, we were hungry and stopped in to take advantage of a two-meals-for-$14.99 offer. Needless to say, the first problem was deciding what to choose. We were tempted by several possibilities, including a Wild West Burger topped with melted Monterrey Jack cheese, crispy bacon, fried onion tanglers a
nd "zesty" Cajun-horseradish sauce and the Cajun Shrimp & Grits (jumbo New Orleans-style shrimp sauteed and served with onions, peppers, tomatoes and chopped bacon over cheddar cheese grits). In the end, though -- recalling that yummy Chicken Harvest soup -- I decided on the Chicken Harvest Pot Pie, while Jack opted for the Prime Rib Philly sandwich with seasoned fries.

Neither of
us was disappointed, and neither did we go home hungry. The sandwich consisted of thinly sliced prime rib on a toasted hoagy roll topped with sauteed mushrooms, onions, peppers and melted Monterrey Jack cheese. The pot pie, which I highly recommend, was a down-home mixture of pulled chicken, carrots, celery, peas and mushrooms in a creamy "harvest" sauce, all piled on top of smashed potatoes and topped with puff pastry. And the taste? To die for; and because the pot pie is so large, I was able to enjoy the other half back at home the next day.

We also noticed that O'Charley's is serving prime rib every day after 4 p.m., so since that's a favorite (and Jack's prime rib sandwich was so delicious), we definitely plan a return trip to try the whole enchilada (with all due respect and a tip of the sombrero to Chi-Chi's).

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the wonderful fresh-baked rolls with hon
ey butter that accompany the entrees. They're a signature item and quite delicious. In fact, if you stop by O'Charley's Web site (see the address below), do check out the video titled "The Story of Our Rolls." It's hokey as all get-out, but very well done and brings home the point in an interesting, unique way.

O'Charley's also serves up a mean Sunday brunch, although not with the typical buffet. Instead, there are off-the-menu items ranging from a wonderful open-face spinach and mushroom omelette ($7.99) to a hefty hunk of that slow-roasted, prime rib rubbed with herbs and spices (10-ounce portion, $14.99). Sandwiches here are especially tasty; my favorite is the Mushroo
m Swiss Bacon Burger topped with just what you'd expect to find given the name ($8.49). And appetizers? Plentiful and delicious as well; here, I'm particularly fond of the Authentic Spinach & Artichoke Dip that comes with warm, crisp tortilla chips ($6.99).

While I'm on the subject of appetizers, I'll let you in on a little secret: If you find a restaurant you especially love, go to the Web site and, if possible, sign up to get periodic e-mails alerting you to special deals, happenings, and such. When I did just that at O'Charley's, I received a printable coupon within minutes giving me a free appetizer with the purchase of an entree. You don't have to use the coupons if you don't want to, but why miss
out on the opportunity? I recommend creating a special "throw-away" e-mail address to use for this purpose so you don't clog up your primary e-mailbox (and then be sure to check it regularly, since most of the special deals and freebies come with expiration dates).

Also as I mentioned before, O'Charley's has a very nice full bar -- and some absolutely wonderful drinks to go with it. We stop in every once in a w
hile for Happy Hour (at the moment, it's from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., when select appetizers are half price, domestic draft beer is $2 and "basic" margaritas are $4. Well drinks are inexpensive, too, and last time I was there the bartender made a mean gin and tonic with lime. If you'd like something a bit fancier, you might try a tangerine pomegranate margarita, a glass of sangria, or perhaps a special Raspberry Limoncello, which is made with Chambord black raspberry, Caravella Limoncello, lemon and lime juice and a splash of cherry and served in a martini glass ($6.49). Yum!

If you go: O'Charley's
5789 Mines Road
Niles, OH 44446
(330) 288-0066

930 Windham Court
Boardman, Ohio 44512
(330) 259-0207
http://www.ocharleys.com

Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (brunch served from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.)

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Quaker Steak & Lube

If any restaurant has earned the right to be dubbed the "granddaddy" of casual sit-down eateries in the local region, it just might be Quaker Steak & Lube. Somewhere around a 25 years ago, it was, among other things, a popular gathering place for students and faculty members from the Penn State Shenango Campus in Sharon, Pa. (in the interest of full disclosure, I had the privilege of joining the fun with them on several occasions). The wings were delicious -- even if the joke was that they were plucked from notoriously teeny chickens -- and the beer was icy cold. If we wanted something more substantial, the burgers, steaks and seafood filled the bill nicely.

What a difference a quarter of a century makes! Not only have the wings thankfully grown to larger proportions, the number of restaurants has grown as well; today, there are 37 in about 12 states. Last year, Quaker Steak opened six new units, and another six (at least) are on tap for this year, according to company reports.

In fact, the origins of the motorsports-themed restaurant are reminiscent of what's happening today. This country's first gas crisis happened in 1974, sending prices sky high and resulting in the closing of gas stations. Two local "boys," George Warren III and Gary Meszaros, wanted a way to keep the memory of those old gas stations and gas-guzzling (and fast disappearing) muscle cars alive. They found it by opening Quaker Steak & Lube, where old cars were displayed. That theme has been carried out in all the restaurants; today, old cars and trucks, vintage motorcycles and more catch diners' attention -- generally hanging directly above patrons' heads from the ceiling. The food, too, is consistent throughout the chain; when we're on the road, my husband and I often will head to a Quaker Steak for lunch or dinner, whether we're in Columbus, Erie, Pa., or Newport News, Va., always knowing we're not in for an unpleasant surprise.

As might be expected, the menu reflects the motorsports theme as well. The huge onion rings that are wonderfully crunchy on the outside and juicy tender on the inside are delivered on an "antenna"; signature sandwiches have names like Mustang Chicken, and kids chow down on Kids Lube Cruiser meals, served in a custom Lube Cruiser racing car they can take home.

The main attraction, of course, is the wings; more than 70 million reported
ly are served up each year. That "Supercharged" sauce -- which back in the day was called "Atomic" -- is so hot that diners are asked to sign a release form before taking a taste. This, of course, means a die-hard heat-seeking freak like me would make a beeline to try them, right? In truth, no -- but it's not because I'm afraid of burnout. In fact, I'm not a big fan of barbecue-flavored wings at all; I'd much rather stick to flavors like Asian Sesame, Golden Garlic and Parmesan Pepper, which has the distinction of being my all-time favorite.

That is, until recently. Back when it was introduced, I fell in love with the flavor of the buttery sauce swimming with shredded parmesan cheese and cracked pepper. In fact, I actually craved it; more than once, I'd get a hankering for an order and beg my "driver" hubby to get me to The Lube as fast as he could -- there's a relatively new one closer to us in Austintown now. But then, everything went South
as the sauce suddenly became a heavy, thick, clingy concoction that was so overpoweringly rich I could barely stand to eat a single wing, let alone a whole order -- even though the flavor remained close to the original. So if you're reading this, guys, please gimme back that original, and irresistible, parmesan pepper sauce -- this new version will never pass my lips again!

Of course, there's much more to enjoy at The Lube than the wings -- the burgers, steaks and seafood are just as good today as they were back in the days when I hung out with the college crowd. My hubby enjoys the newer grilled boneless wings
-- usually in the ranch flavor ($7.99 for a single order) -- and one of my favorites, especially since the transformation of that parmesan pepper sauce, is the "Biker Chick" chopped salad ($8.99). It's romaine lettuce with dried cranberries, grilled boneless chicken and strawberries with Wildberry Poppyseed dressing -- and it's wonderful! When we're in the mood for sandwiches, our favorites include the corned beef reuben ($8.29) and turkey bacon club ($8.59).

Another very new menu addition is the The flatbread pizza, called "Flatbed Flatbreads" in keeping with the automotive theme. They're available in Philly Cheese Steak, Southwest BBQ Chicken and California Veggie Ranch versions, and they're excellent.

The menu of course has evolved over the years, and it's quite possible more changes are in the works as evidenced by last month's hiring of Dudley McMahon in the newly created position of vice president of culinary development and purchasing. McMahon, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who's accumulated considerable experience at chains similar in style to Quaker Steak & Lube, worked with Quaker Steak President and CEO Ken Cole for six years at the California-based Sizzler restaurants and for three at Damon's International in Columbus.

“Chef Dudley’s research and development, purchasing and operations experience will help us build on that heritage as The Lube continues to expand into new U.S. and international markets," Cole stated in a February news release, noting that Quaker Steak & Lube opened six units last year, and with at least that many scheduled for this year, the 37-unit chain’s growth is in high gear.

Exactly what Dudley will add to the organization isn't known yet, but we'll certainly keep our fingers crossed (hey, maybe he won't like that new parmesan garlic sauce either)!

So popular are the Quaker Steak restaurants that if you go at a "regular" lunch or dinner hour, it's likely you'll have a wait. A favorite "trick" of ours is arriving somewhere around 1:30 p.m. -- a bit late for lunch, but still in time to enjoy Quaker Steak's wonderful lunch buffet (which ends around 2:30). I'm not quoting prices for much here since they can vary depending on the restaurant location, but the lunch buffet goes for somewhere around $7.99 and is, in my opinion, a real bargain. Do be aware, though, that there's no buffet on Saturdays.

At our most recent visit, we filled up on meatloaf, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, at least one flatbread pizza, clam chowder and cream of carrot soups, salads and a variety of desserts. Oh yes, and one flavor of boneless wings (Golden Garlic) and two of the regular wings (Ranch and Buffalo). The salad bar had a bowl of chopped lettuce as well as regular pulled-apart kind -- always a plus for me -- and the tomatoes are finely chopped as well (also a plus). Toppings included red raisins, hot banana peppers and jalapenos, and the several dressings including Hidden Valley Ranch (which I chose). I also tried some of the three-bean salad and a couple of the Tai-flavored chicken bites that weren't on the published buffet menu.

The green beans had a tasty seasoning and were deliciously interspersed with sliced red peppers. The meatloaf was tender and juicy, the gravy tasty. I got two ranch wings -- not necessarily my favorite, but good -- before our server told us if we wanted a flavor that wasn't on the buffet that day, they'd be happy to make up special orders of five or six of any flavor I wanted (we declined on this day, but the fact that it's an option sure is a great idea and one we filed away in our heads for the next time).

Among the several desserts were banana custard and fresh-fried dough that resembled a cross between elephant ears and curly waffles, the latter of which could be topped with a variety of temptations like cherries and chocolate sauce. The chocolate dipped pretzel sticks were tempting, but I forced myself to "settle" for a few chocolate-covered strawberries. At the end of our meal, our server delivered, as is customary, warm wetnaps to clean our sticky fingers and a couple of those yummy red Twizzler sticks.

If your appetite is bigger still, don't miss the buffet on Sundays. It, too, ends at 2:30 p.m., and it's all you can eat for $11.99. This is an especially great deal; if you order straight off the menu and get a wings-and-rings combo, for instance, it will set you back close to $11; so why not spend another buck and eat your heart out?

Buffet items the day we were there included fresh chef-cooked scrambled eggs with red peppers, onions and cheese, bacon strips and sausage links, buttermilk biscuits and thick white gravy, a waffle station with toppings like chocolate sauce, whipped cream and syrup and more -- and that's just the "breakfast" items. Ham slices, sausage and peppers, peel-and-eat shrimp, macaroni and cheese, hash browns and a salad table (the Caesar is especially good) and two kinds of wings were among the heartier fare (and yes, you can order other flavors of wings at this buffet as well).

It's always fun to eat inside the restaurants, but when the weather permits, it's even more fun -- for us, at least -- to sit outdoors. Both the Sharon and Austintown locations have open patios of sorts; while the views are less than spectacular, those yummy wings always seem to taste even better when they're mixed with fresh air and sunshine.

If you go:

Quaker Steak & Lube
101 Chestnut St.
Sharon, PA 16146
(800) HOT-WING
www.quakersteakandlube.com

Open Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to Midnight; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Note: The site listed is the original Quaker Steak & Lube. There are a number of other locations, so check the Web site to find the one closest to where you are (or going to be). The full menu is available online as well.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Jeremiah Bullfrogs Sports Bar & Grille

Jeremiah was a bullfrog. And after visiting his very laid-back restaurant several times, he's definitely a good friend of mine!

Truth is, my husband Jack and I had driven past Jeremiah Bullfrogs Sp
orts Bar & Grille in Austintown many times -- it's located in the Westin Center Plaza -- usually on the way to stop at the Panera Bakery Cafe for some of those wonderful Danish pastries or to have lunch at the Rotelli restaurant. Some day, we always said, we'll peek inside and see what it's like. That day finally arrived not long ago, when I had to make a quick run to Panera for a loaf of bread, after which we'd planned to head elsewhere to have lunch at one of our old familiar eateries. While I was at Panera, though, Jack wandered a couple of doors down to check out Jeremiah's.

When we met up 10 minutes later, I was greeted by an enthusiastic, "Wait till you see this place -- you're gonna love it!"

As it turns out, t
ruer words were never spoken. But if my words aren't enough to be convincing, consider this: be Within a week and a half of that first visit, we made two return trips.

For openers, this is our kind of atmosphere; the interior is quite large with plenty of uncrowded seating at booths and tables. There's a full bar for times we just want to pop in for a beer or perhaps a munchie or two during the Happy Hour that takes place from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. daily, and with more than 30 flat-screen TV sets, we're always within view of whatever we'd like to watch. All around the walls are cardboard cut-outs and ceramic bullfrogs -- and even a few of the lyrics to "Joy to the World," a song written by Hoyt Axton made wildly popular by Three Dog Night.

Other than liking what I saw inside, though, my first real clue that I'd be very happy here was looking at the menu and seeing Antone's salad listed there. For years, I've actually craved that salad -- chopped iceberg and romaine lettuce tossed with tune, salami, Romano and m
ozzarella cheeses. Wow, I wondered, what's up with that?

As it turns out, Jeremiah Bullfrogs is owned by the folks at Antone's -- there's a second location in Boardman -- so the pasta and other offerings here are familiar to Antone's regulars as well (Antone's, for the record, has been an area staple since 1961). We even noticed Antone's gift baskets filled with tempting goodies perched atop some of the partitions that delineate various seating sections.


The extensive list of appetizers and wings, the latter including a Jim Beam Bourbon sauce, got Jack's attention first. He ended up getting the Froggers' Sliders appetizer ($7.49) which consists of four miniature hamburgers with onions, pickles, American cheese and fries. To that, he added a cup of tomato basil soup ($3.99).

Needless to say, I wasted little time ordering the Antone's salad (with Antone's Italian dressing) as a side to my sausage penne marinara, one of the daily specials ($6.99). The pasta was loaded with green peppers, onions and plenty of sausage and marinara sauce and quite delicious. The salad, though, was a surprise. Yes, I'm very familiar with what I'd describe as my favorite-ever salad. What I didn't expect was the size; as a side, I figured it would be a relatively small portion.

Not so! In fact, it was so large -- and so mouth-watering -- that I scarfed up the entire thing and had no room for that wonderful pasta! Oh well, I reasoned, the pasta would be great for lunch the next day. It was, but I had to share it with Jack.

Jack's four sliders would have been about two too many for me, but he managed to eat all four. The fries were quite good as well, and there were plenty of them to share. The soup is an absolute standout; very very thick, full of finely chopped tomatoes and spices and, in short, just wonderful.

As we neared the end of our first meal here, I looked longingly at the list of "signature" hot chocolate drinks, all $4.95 and very "adult" beverages with tempting names like "Chocolate Cherries" (with Bailey's Irish Creme, grenadine and hot chocolate). Oooh, I signed -- no room left today. Maybe next time!

Next time we stopped in -- maybe a week later -- Jack simply had to have another cup of that great tomato basil soup. Our server pointed out that a cup is $3.99 and a bowl is just a dollar more, making the latter a much better deal (and yes, Jack agreed). To that he added a beef brisket sandwich with fries ($7.99) and one of the $5.99 pitchers of domestic draft beer. The brisket was delilcious, topped with hot peppers,mozzarella cheese and vinegar cole slaw on a grilled ciabatta hoagie. He did find a few hot pepper rings, which he fished out and gave to me.

Meantime, I decided to go big-time. For the month of February, Jeremiah's was offering half-slabs of their "Almost Famous" ribs accompanied by fries and slaw for $8.99, and that Jim Beam bourbon glaze sounded great. But then, I saw the chicken francaise and -- not being a huge ribs fan -- I went in that direction. For an extra 99 cents, I substituted that wonderful Antone's salad for the regular slaw, and chose pasta with red sauce for the second side. I could have had the pasta topped with the francaise sauce to "match" my chicken, but somehow that sounded like overkill.

The pan-fried chicken breasts were lightly breaded and topped with a delicious lemon wine sauce. The portions seemed a little small for the $11.99 price tag, but they were extremely tasty and satifying (besides, I'd filled up on that Antone's salad once again). This time, though, I didn't have any of the entree left to take home.

After a second great experience here, we returned once again -- and the third time was a charm as well, at least for me. This time, one of the daily specials was three bone-in ribs with four wings, fries and cole slaw for $6.99. Aha, I said, now I can try that Jim Beam bourbon sauce! Not being terribly hungry, Jack decided on the "Big Ol' Pepper and Egg sandwich $6.99; it was made with four eggs, hot, sweet or mixed peppers (he got the sweet), mozarella cheese and mayo on toasted Italian bread. Once again, he couldn't resist that tomato-basil soup -- he went straight for the bowl this time, asking for two spoons so I could help him finish it (as if he needed any).

The "regular" (non-vinegar) slaw is not finely shredded, but the sweet mayo dressing rivals my own -- which I consider to be the best in the world, for the record. The wings are on the small side and very, very crispy -- I chose the garlic sauce -- and at first, I thought they'd be too crunchy for me to eat (those of us who still have most of our teeth realize that the older they get, the more vulnerable they become). But they weren't too bad, and the garlic sauce was quite delicious and loaded with small pieces of garlic.

Turns out the Jim Beam sauce is delicious as well, and the the ribs were so fall-off-the-bone tender that it was impossible to pick one up -- I was "forced" to eat them with a fork. I should also note that the fries are quite tasty here as well, and I'm not a big fan of French fries. They are so plentiful, however, that we've never been able to come close to polishing off even a single side order.

As for Jack's egg sandwich, the best I can say is he was less than enthusiastic. To start, it was so large that it was virtually impossible to pick it up even though it was cut in half. The eggs were cooked rather like a pancake and almost brown on both sides -- more than a little overcooked and very lacking in flavor. That's one sandwich we won't try again, but there are plenty more on the extensive menu for us to try next time, and the next and the next!

Editor's Note: This update was added to the Jeremiah Bullfrogs review on March 5, 2010.

More recently, the sun decided to peek out (finally!) so Jack and I headed south through farm country to try out the replacement lens he just got for his Canon Digital Rebel XSi camera. On the way home, we were hungry and ended up at Jeremiah's, which has become an old standby. Once again, we weren't disappointed.

We had a coupon from the Entertainment Book that gave us a buy one, get one free lunch (up to $7 off), and when our server said it was good on anything from the list of entrees for the day, we stopped looking at the less expensive sandwiches and went straight to the good stuff. And boy, was it ever good!

For my entree, I chose the haddock at $9.99 -- broiled instead of fried -- which came with one side (mashed potatoes) and either fries or a tossed salad (the latter, with some of that wonderful Antone's House Italian dressing that's the same as on my favorite Antone's salad I mentioned earlier). Meanwhile, Jack couldn't resist the stuffed flounder at $11.99; knowing full well that I'm not a big fan of fries, he got those so we could share.

First came some of that wonderful fresh-baked bread, along with plenty of butter packets -- very unusual since at most restaurants you're lucky to get two or three. My salad was almost as good as the Antone's salad -- I've concluded that the dressing is close to half the appeal here. It's absolutely delicious.

Then the entrees were delivered, and oh my! My piece of haddock was quite substantial and swimming in a wonderful buttery sauce. Noticing that the mashed potatoes were plain, our server immediately asked if I'd like gravy (yes, ma'am). It arrived in short order -- a thick brown -- and it was excellent. And, it was plentiful enough that when I'd finished the mashed potatoes, I tried dipping a fry in the gravy bowl and discovered yet another treat.

My fish was quite tasty, and while it perhaps could have used 30 seconds less under the broiler, it was flaky, tender and nowhere near as overcooked as I find at most restaurants. Jack's flounder, though, was nothing short of outstanding. He raved ("This is the best meal I've had in a long, long time," he uttered when he came up for a breath between bites). It was wonderful; the stuffing was very flavorful, and whatever sauce was on top -- sort of a Hollandaise taste -- really made it outstanding. In short, it's a highly recommended dish and our complements went to the chef -- who for the record turned out to be the husband of our server (who said this is a favorite dish of hers as well).

If you go:

Jeremiah Bullfrogs Sports Bar & Grille
5229 Mahoning Ave. (Westin Center)
Austintown, Ohio 44515
(330) 259-3402

--OR--

1315 Boardman-Canfield Road, Boardman 44512
(330) 965-0800
www.jbullfrogs.com